Today were going to take a quick look at the Wallace Forge flat mount trailer coupler part #: FC25. This cast trailer coupler has a gross trailer weight capacity of 25,000lbs. Its designed to work with trailer hitch balls that measure 2 5/16 inches. On the back of the coupler are four mounting holes that are spaced 4 inches apart center to center in a square pattern. The overall length of the coupler measures about 8 inches. Now we want to show you the way the lash mechanism operates.
On this side of the coupler is a securing pin attached to the coupler with a chain lanyard so you dont lose it. To open the latch well need to remove this pin. Then well take our handle, pull it out and rotate it down. What this does is it moves the wedge that sits at the back of the ball, back away from the ball so it can come in and out. Well take a look at that from the underside.
Again, well pull the handle out and rotate it forward. As we rotate forward the latch moves back. Now, we have a 2 5/16 ball with us, so well show you how it works in conjunction with an actual ball. Weve got our socket opened, fit our ball into place and as we let the handle rotate forward and in the wedge moves forward securing around the backside of the ball. Now our ball is completely captive and cant come out, but its got enough smooth travel that the trailer will track nicely behind your tow vehicle.
Once the pin is upright and pushed all the way forward we can reinsert our security pin on the other side. And thats it for our quick look at the Wallace Forge flat mount trailer coupler part #: FC25.
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.