Today, we're going to review part number T1554400CB042. This is the Titan 5 on 4-1/2-inch Hub and Drum Assembly for hydraulic brakes. This is a 10-inch by 2-1/4-inch hub and drum assembly. It does include the wheels and the bearing races. The outer is right here. The inner race is right here and all of our hub and drum assemblies that we sell will include pre-installed bearing races.
The inner and outer bearings, the grease seal, and the grease cap will be sold separately and the lug nuts. This assembly is for a hydraulic brake application. A few dimensions on it. I did mention this is a 10-inch by 2-1/4. So basically, the 10 inches would measure inside to inside, 10 inches across.
The 2-1/4 would actually be the width here. So if we put that under, it would be 2-1/4 inches. The bolt pattern mentioned is a five-lug 4-1/2-inch bolt pattern, and the way to measure your bolt pattern is on a bolt pattern that would have an odd number of logs like, in this case, five. What you'd want to do is measure from the center of one lug to the center of the other lug stud either way, and when you get that measurement, which in this case, we'll measure it and that will be 2-5/8 inches. And what you need to do is go to the product page for this part number and at the bottom of the page, you'll have a chart listed that when you measure the bolt next to next each other and it's 2-5/8.
That will mean this is a 5 on 4-1/2-inch bolt pattern. The inner bearing part number that it does use is L68149. The outer bearing part number it uses is L44649. Again, they're sold separately. The grease seal that goes in the rear here is sold separately and the wheel lug nuts that go on there would require 1/2-inch by 20 lug nut size.
This part does come with a one-year warranty. And that should do it for our review on part number T1554400CB042. .
First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next is taking out the locking pin, the cotter pin that goes through the center here. Once you have that lock washer off, just go ahead and take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. Now we are going to go ahead and inspect the hub and bearings here.
First off, we will take off the hub, then take off the nut on the inside, and we will pop the whole hub off and take it to the workbench and clean it up from there. You can see there is a lot of rust in there, there is a lot of condensation. Basically water got in there through either condensation or a seal leak. We definitely need to take it apart and clean it up. This has whats called a tang washer. Instead of a regular cotter pin that goes up and down, it has a little piece of metal that goes between the notches here and you have to push this back, flat, so you can take off the nut. And the whole thing just slides off. Sometimes if it gets caught on the hub here you can beat it to get it to come loose. We will go ahead and clean this spindle off here, and then we will put our hub back on. Give it a test fit first to make sure it all slides on pretty good and then go ahead and take it back off. What is good is to take a thin layer, it doesnt have to be much just a little bit, to kind of help the parts slide on a little bit more than they used to.
We get many many questions on how to make sure trailer hubs and brakes are safe for travel. Here Joe addresses some of those questions demonstrating how to thoroughly inspect the hubs, breaks and bearings. I know many of us take the performance of these assemblies for granted but if you are planning a long trip or just make short trips around town you should be aware of their condition. I like to say it is time well spent when it avoids break downs on the side of the highway.