Today we're going to take a quick look at the Redline A-frame coupler with black finish, part number CA5100b. Now this coupler has a 5000 pound gross trailer weight capacity. It also has a 700 pound tongue weight capacity. It's designed to work with a 2 inch trailer ball and it will fit over your standard 50 degree A frame trailers. There's also a jack mount predrilled into the top of our coupler. There's a large center hole for the jack's body and three threaded hole for the bolts.
This is a well done coupler so when you fit it over the frame of your trailer, you'll just weld along the edges to secure it to the trailer's frame. We'll go over one quick measurement here. We're going to take a look at the overall length of the coupler and we get about 13-1/2 inches. Now we'll show you the latching mechanism. On the underside of the handle there's a little trigger release.
You'll need to pull it up in order to open then handle. When you close it, that trigger reengages against this plate to help prevent unintentional opening of the latch. Now there's a better method here. There's a hole drilled all the way through the handle and the latch mechanism. You can use the coupler lock through there to prevent the latch from opening, even if the trigger gets depressed.
It'll also help protect your trailer against theft while you have it in storage. Now we'll take a look at the underside so we can see how the latch mechanism works with the ball. There's a wedge here that fits along the back of the ball. When we open our latch, the wedge moves back and down, out of the way so you can either couple or uncouple your trailer. I'm going to show you again with a two inch trailer ball that we have.
You'll fit the coupler over the ball and close the handle. The wedge engages against the back of the ball and the trigger latch will reengage up top and that's when you know it's closed all the away. It's a good snug fit on the ball that allows travel to make sure the trailer tracks smoothly behind the vehicle, but with the wedge in place, the wedge is captive and can't come out. And that's it for the Redline A-frame coupler with black pain finish, part number CA5100b.
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.