Today were going to review part number STL69RRXB. This is the Optronics Sealed Thin Line over 80-inch trailer LED stop turn taillight. This is a 3-function 11-diode red reflector. This red rectangular trailer light will serve 3 functions for trailers that are more than 80-inches wide. Itll be the stop, the turn and the taillight. It does include an integrated reflector to fulfill the rear reflex requirement.
This is a great replacement for incandescent lights. There are no bulbs to replace, no brittle filaments to break. This is waterproof and corrosion-resistant. This polycarbonate lens is sonically welded to the housing for durability. Its an all-weather plastic molded housing and the durable lens will protect against corrosion.
This is a surface mount taillight. It does have 11 red LEDs and a red lens. This does use a 3-wire design which will contain a white wire for ground, a black wire for the taillights and a red wire for the stop and turn lights. The LED lights will draw .270 amps at 12.8 volts for the stop and turn lights and itll draw .025 amps at 12.8 volts for the taillights. Ill give you a quick dimension on this.
The overall length of this light will be 15 inches. It uses mounting two holes for mounting and Ill measure the distance between the center of one mounting hole to the center of the other mounting hole thatll be 14 1/8 inch. It is 1 5/8-inch wide and 5/8 of an inch deep. There is a lifetime warranty on the LEDs. Now what Im going to do is connect this light to a power supply to give you an idea of the brightness of the light.
So well hook the light to white for the ground, well hook the black to the taillight. This will give you an idea of the brightness of the taillight. And then Ill hook the red to the stop and turn and that would be the stop and turn and then what Im going to do is turn off the overhead lights and then this will give you an idea. Theres the taillight brightness and that would be the stop and turn brightness. That should do it for part number STL69RRXB.
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to replace the wiring on this trailer. Right now, this trailer has a 5 pull socket here and the owner uses a patch cord in between here and his tow vehicle. What we are going to do is remove all this and add a 7-way cable that leads right to his tow vehicle. We will be using part number H20046. We will unbolt the connector here. Then we will go ahead and untape it and undo the screw right here, it should release the inside part where the pins are and the wires are connected. Tale that, push everything out. Simply disconnect our wires. 1:04
In this edition of “This Old Trailer” we are going to wire up the lights on this trailer. Previously we had hooked up electric brakes and you can see, right now we have the junction box installed on there and we have wires ran for electric brakes. We have nothing for the actual tail lights themselves. That is what we are going to start on today. :30
Next we are going to go to less obvious stuff. Say for instance you have got your ground wire hooked back up to the frame and weird stuff happening out back. We will have to dig into the wire itself a little bit. In this case basically you want to check your wiring connection. You have a wiring connection right here that could be a potential problem right there. Chances are whatever fitting you used to put the wiring together might come loose. And also we have something kind of obvious too. The wire here has a little bit of road rash on it. You can see the bare wires on the inside. Even though it may still be making contact eventually this wire here will corrode up inside there and it will just lose contact so we are basically going to have a broken wire eventually. Lets go ahead and take this apart here we will see what we have got on the inside. 01:14
We have demonstrated all of these fixes checking the ground on the trailer. The trailer itself is actually used as a ground obviously. Now there is some cases where you boat trailer guys and some small utility trailers out there, the ground is actually carried in a separate wire that lowers the trailer frame completely. The same tricks apply to check and make sure your light is working. Again the connection to the light could be bad or it could be actually a smashed wire underneath the frame of the trailer or also up front where you have got a little bit of road rash dragging the ground. We will go ahead and show you next an example of that type of wiring on a different trailer. 01:04
The first thing you want to do when you first start working on electrical problems is you want to divide and conquer. You have two parts here, the truck and the trailer. You want to verify which one actually has the problem. Chances are it is going to be on the trailer, but then again you still want to check the truck too. So use a separate light tester, hook a ground not to the frame but to the 4-pull ground itself because this is what is going to carry the ground to the trailer. :52
Now we will move on to another circuit. In this case it will be the right turn circuit. And we will just check the signal on that. On the right turn signal here again, the same principle applies. Start from the front and work you way back. What happens a lot is that on some of these lights here where the wire gets ran in behind it, there is a channel that these wires fit into. However a lot of times, even on brand new trailers. This wire actually does not fit in the channel, they miss when they put it together. The wire gets smashed between the light and the frame of the trailer. Eventually they wear down to a minuscule spec of wire that is visible but it will cause a short and all kinds of headaches.