Today we're going to take a quick look at the Fulton A Frame Coupler for 2-5/16 balls, part number F44305r0317. Now Fulton covers this coupler with a limited three year warranty that has a gross trailer weight capacity of 10,000 pounds and it's designed to use 2-5/16 balls. It's a well done style coupler designed to work with 50 degree A frame trailers and you'll just weld the coupler along its edges to your trailer. It's got the mount for a standard A frame trailer jack with a large round hole for the body of the jack and three threaded holes for the bolts to secure it. It's finished in a gray paint and it uses a trigger latch system. We'll pull up on the trigger below the handle and then open the latch to free the ball underneath.
There's a hole through our latch system that we can use the coupler lock to secure the latch and make sure it doesn't come open when pulling a trailer down the road, as well as prevent theft while having your trailer stored. When we open the latch, the hole in our handle also lines up with a couple of holes on the top of our mount so we can insert our pin and it will hold the latch open for us. Now we'll take a look at the system underneath. Underneath you'll see that there's a wedge here that slides down and forward onto the back of the ball when we secure it. We'll pull up our trigger, open our latch, and the wedge moves up and away from the ball.
Now we've got a 2-5/16 ball with us, so we'll show you how it works with an actual trailer ball. We've got our coupler open, fit our ball into place, as we let the latch close, the wedge comes down securing our ball. It allows free movement so the trailer will track nicely behind the truck, but it's also captive and it won't let the ball come out. Again, we'll pull up our trigger, pull up our latch, the wedge moves back and we can remove our ball. That's it for a look at the Fulton A Frame Coupler for 2-5/16 balls, part number F44305r0317..
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.