Today, we're going to take a quick look at Dexter Axles, Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, part number 8-201-9UC3-EZ. This drum is designed to work on 5200 and 6000-pound axles. The drum's capacity itself is 3000 pounds so when you pair it up with another drum on the other side of the axle, you'll get your 6000 pounds total capacity. Included with this drum are all the parts that you'll need to mount it to your axle. The races are already pressed inside the hub bore. You also have your bearings.
The inner bearing is 25580 and the outer bearing is 15123. You have a grease cap with a 2.44-inch outer diameter and a removable rubber plug so that you can access the grease zerk on your EZ lube spindle. There are also six conical lug nuts for securing the wheel to the drum and your grease seal. The hub and drum assembly has a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. There are six lugs or six studs and if we're able to accurately measure across from one stud directly across to the other, we get our 5-1/2-inch measurement.
Now, we'll take a look inside the drum and take a couple of measurements. Our depth measures in at about 2-1/4 inches. Our diameter across the inside is 12 inches, which means that this drum should be used with 12-inch by 2-inch brake assemblies. And that's it for our quick look at Dexter Axles, Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, part number 8-201-9UC3-EZ.
First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next is taking out the locking pin, the cotter pin that goes through the center here. Once you have that lock washer off, just go ahead and take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. Now we are going to go ahead and inspect the hub and bearings here.
First off, we will take off the hub, then take off the nut on the inside, and we will pop the whole hub off and take it to the workbench and clean it up from there. You can see there is a lot of rust in there, there is a lot of condensation. Basically water got in there through either condensation or a seal leak. We definitely need to take it apart and clean it up. This has whats called a tang washer. Instead of a regular cotter pin that goes up and down, it has a little piece of metal that goes between the notches here and you have to push this back, flat, so you can take off the nut. And the whole thing just slides off. Sometimes if it gets caught on the hub here you can beat it to get it to come loose. We will go ahead and clean this spindle off here, and then we will put our hub back on. Give it a test fit first to make sure it all slides on pretty good and then go ahead and take it back off. What is good is to take a thin layer, it doesnt have to be much just a little bit, to kind of help the parts slide on a little bit more than they used to.
We get many many questions on how to make sure trailer hubs and brakes are safe for travel. Here Joe addresses some of those questions demonstrating how to thoroughly inspect the hubs, breaks and bearings. I know many of us take the performance of these assemblies for granted but if you are planning a long trip or just make short trips around town you should be aware of their condition. I like to say it is time well spent when it avoids break downs on the side of the highway.