Today were going to review part number 8-173-16UC3-EZ. This is the Dexter Complete E-Z Lube Hub and Drum Assembly for Electric Brakes. This trailer Hub and Drum is designed for the 2000 lb rated trailer axles with electric brakes. The drum size is 7 inches by 1-1/4 inches. This hub and drum will work with the part number 23-47 and 23-48 electric brake assemblies. And just a note, this hub will only fit with the 1-1/4 inch brake shoes and will not fit with the 1-3/4 inch brake shoes.
This hub and drum does have a 4 on 4-inch bolt pattern and this part does come with the inner and outer bearings which use both part number L44649. It does come with the part number 10-6 degree seal. It does come with the 1/2-inch cone seat lug nuts and also the E-Z lube grease cap that fits on the end of the hub here. And the reason it is an E-Z lube there is a center rubber plate that is removable to give you access to the zerk fitting to grease your E-Z lube hubs or spindles. Now the capacity on this hub and drum assembly will be 2200 lbs when used with another one on the other side, so two of these on the axle will have a capacity of 2200 lbs.
And I just want to give you a few measurements on this. This is a 7-inch hub and drum so that would measure 7 inches that way. And it does have a 4 on 4-inch bolt pattern and usually on a bolt pattern that is an even number of lugs you could just go directly from the center of one lug to the center directly across from it. In this case because the hub is higher its going to be hard to get a correct reading going this way. So if you just measure from a center of a lug bolt to the center of the lug bolt right next to it either way and it should measure about 2-3/4 inches and that will determine that this a 4 on 4-inch bolt pattern hub.
Now the races are included. The outer race is already pressed in here. The inner race is already right there. And that should do it for our review on part number 8-173-16UC3-EZ.
First off we will go ahead and take off the dust cap. In this case it is a bearing buddy. Next is taking out the locking pin, the cotter pin that goes through the center here. Once you have that lock washer off, just go ahead and take off the nut and pull your whole hub off. Now we are going to go ahead and inspect the hub and bearings here.
First off, we will take off the hub, then take off the nut on the inside, and we will pop the whole hub off and take it to the workbench and clean it up from there. You can see there is a lot of rust in there, there is a lot of condensation. Basically water got in there through either condensation or a seal leak. We definitely need to take it apart and clean it up. This has whats called a tang washer. Instead of a regular cotter pin that goes up and down, it has a little piece of metal that goes between the notches here and you have to push this back, flat, so you can take off the nut. And the whole thing just slides off. Sometimes if it gets caught on the hub here you can beat it to get it to come loose. We will go ahead and clean this spindle off here, and then we will put our hub back on. Give it a test fit first to make sure it all slides on pretty good and then go ahead and take it back off. What is good is to take a thin layer, it doesnt have to be much just a little bit, to kind of help the parts slide on a little bit more than they used to.
We get many many questions on how to make sure trailer hubs and brakes are safe for travel. Here Joe addresses some of those questions demonstrating how to thoroughly inspect the hubs, breaks and bearings. I know many of us take the performance of these assemblies for granted but if you are planning a long trip or just make short trips around town you should be aware of their condition. I like to say it is time well spent when it avoids break downs on the side of the highway.