Today we're going to take a quick look at the Bulldog collar lock coupler with low-profile latch, part number BD028499. Bulldog covers this coupler with a limited 5 year warranty that has a gross trailer weight capacity of 12,500 pounds. It's designed to work with standard 50 degree A frame trailers and it's a well done application so you'll just weld along the edges of the coupler to secure it to your trailer's frame. It has the cut out assembly for a jack where there's the main hole for the body of the jack and three bolt holes spaced apart according to industry standards for mounting the jack to the coupler. Now we're going to go over the coupler's mechanism. There's a collar that has to slide back and this hinged jaw will then be able to open up.
There's a pin in place that stops the collar from moving back accidently. So, we'll remove the pin and then we can operate the jack. We'll grab this lever and pull it, the collar slides back and the jaw pops open. Now, there's a shoulder here on our jaw that holds the collar back so it doesn't close while you're trying to hookup or unhook your trailer. To close the jaw, we can either just hit it closed or push it down while holding the latch and slowly let the collar over it.
We've got a 2-5/16 ball with us so we can show you how it works with an actual ball. The coupler is closed, so we'll grab our latch and open it up and the hinged jaw pops open, fit our ball into place and the coupler closes. Now our ball is secure, but it allows enough movement for it to track behind our tow vehicle. Now we'll just push our latch down and open our collar and the ball comes free. Again, we'll hold the collar back, push the jaw down and we can let the collar slide forward.
Lastly, we'll go over one measurement and that's the overall length of the coupler. It measures about 16-1/2 inches. That's it for a quick look at the Bulldog collar lock coupler with low-profile latch, part number BD028499. .
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.