Today were going to take a quick look at the Atwood Trailer Coupler for A-frame tongues part number 81911. This coupler is designed to work with 50 degree A-frame trailer tongues. It has an overall length of about 13 inches. It has a standard hole here for a jack that uses the standard three bolt pattern. Its designed to work with two and five sixteenth balls and has a capacity of 10,000 pounds and a 1500 pound tongue weight capacity. The latch mechanism is a little bit different than other trailer couplers.
Right now its in the closed position. To open it well flip this latch up and pull the whole mechanism back towards our trailer. What that does underneath is pulls this block out of the way and then frees the ball from the socket. Next were going to show you how it works with an actually two and five sixteenth trailer ball. Well flip our latch up and pull it back then we can put our ball into the socket and we can push our latch forward.
Now the ball is captive and cant go anywhere and it still provided smooth ravel for keeping the trailer steady behind the vehicle. Flip open the latch and slide it back and the ball comes free. Now on the top of our latch here is a hole thats drilled through the level. You can use a coupler lock here to secure the trailer coupler that way it cant be accidentally removed from the vehicle while towing down the road and also helps prevent theft while the trailer is being stored. Thats it for a quick look at the Atwood Trailer Coupler for A-frame tongues part number 81911..
Today on This Old Boat Trailer we are going to rebuild the hydraulic actuator on here and we are going to be using part number 85841, the master cylinder itself, and then we are going to use a master cylinder replacement cap part number A87478, and the cable push rod replacement kit part number 85852, all from Atwood. The first thing we need to do is remove the old master cylinder itself. This is going to require taking off the cap which we have already done. We have disconnected the line back here already and then we can see our factory line, lets disconnect that and then we are just going to undo these four bolts right here. There is probably going to be some leftover brake fluid in there so it will be a good idea to wear some gloves or something. We are going to pull out the back and then underneath there is a little push rod you may want to pull away from it too to help knock it out. 01:09
Today on This Old Trailer we are going to install a brand new coupler using part number 2836AT from Master Lock. This is going to be a three inch wide coupler on it and in between here is going to be three inches wide and it is going to use a two inch ball. The first steps involved are to remove the old coupler. It has been on there for awhile. It is rusted so take a couple of wrenches to it and maybe we will get lucky and we will actually break the bolts and get it to come loose that way. This little stand right here got bent back, probably pinching the coupler, so we are going to take that one apart too. Obviously this is rusted in place so we are going to have to persuade it off. 00:59
Today we are going to show you how to replace a hydraulic coupler. In this case this one is damaged and is going to get replaced by a totally different model. First thing we are going to do is actually drain all the fluid from the master cylinder. And what we are actually going to do is open up one of the wheel cylinders and pump our fluid out and into a holding container. All right we will go to the wheel cylinder now and attach a rubber line to the bleeder valve and get our container ready. What we will do is take the cover off our bleeder valve here and we will go ahead and open it up. Okay, here we just take a rubber hose and just slide it on to the bleeder valve itself. All right and then we will just run the other half of the hose into an empty container here and start draining the fluid out of the master cylinder.