Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Code: 75038
Retail:$244.65
Price:$175.95
$155.95 after Mail In Rebate

Shipping Weight: 37 pounds
Shipping SpecialFully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.
Features:
Specs:

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.
Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.
In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.
At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.
Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
All right, today we are going to install part number 75038 on a 1994 Ford F-150 pickup truck. All right, the hitch gets mounted to the frame right here. There is actually a dent in the hitch where it mounts against this rivet right here. And it mounts onto the frame about this far back. And you do have to drill all the holes out in the frame. So the best way to do it is to clamp it up to the frame and then use the hitch as a template and drill out all the holes. All right, one other thing you want to do before you install is lower the spare tire as far as possible to give you some working room to get up in there.
All right, why do we not go ahead and install our hitch. We are going to clamp it in place. And it is a good idea to have an extra set of hands. All right, once you have your hitch installed, when you clamp it into place, make sure that this rivet here is going toward this side of the dent on the hitch. Push it all the way forward and push the hitch against the rivet, and you will be set and it will be squared on the frame. After that, you will not have to worry about it left and right. Now we can go ahead and drill out our holes. What we are going to do is drill out everything with our 1/4 inch bit first to mark our holes, for a pilot hole for our larger bit, and then before we use our larger bit we will take down the hitch and finish drilling out the holes to a little over 1/2 inch. For the pilot holes, then, we can go ahead and take down the hitch and finish drilling out the holes. What we are going to do is actually go up to a 1/2 inch bit and then after that we are going to run it out to about 9/16. That way, that will give us a little extra wiggle room for the bolts to move around to get into the hitch. Also, you might not get them exactly perfect and aligned, so a little extra wiggle room will help. Again, we will go ahead and repeat the same process on the other side.
Next we will go ahead and install our hardware. The bolt with the black anodized finish goes toward the end of the frame. And the plate you want to have kind of like matching the end of the frame, too. Not sticking out - kind of like matching the frame itself. And then the rest of the hardware, the bolts and plates go in just like so. If you can get the plate to fit in like this, great. If you cannot, it is no big deal to leave it on the outside. It usually never does. Repeat the process for the other side. Now we can go ahead and reinstall the hitch and we will use a couple of nuts to hold it in place while we guide the rest of the other bolts in. Now we can go ahead and reinstall some bolts - if any of them came out, we can push those back into the hitch. Now we can install the rest of our fasteners: the lock washers and the nuts, in their proper sequence. And the bolt on the end gets a flange nut - and it is a locking one, so you only get like two or three threads in before it will stop. And then you have to crank it down after that. Again, repeat for the other side. At this point we can go ahead and snug down our bolts. On the bolt on the end of the frame you will have to have a wrench to hold down the bolt while you tighten it down. And again, it is a lock nut, so you will have a lot of resistance tightening it down. Go ahead and snug up the rest of the bolts. At this point we will give them their final torque. All right, that is all it takes to install our hitch, part number 75038, on a 1994 Ford pickup truck.
1997 - 2004 Dodge Dakota All Models
1978 - 1996 Ford Bronco Full Size
1973 - 1983 Ford F-100, F-150, F-250, F-350 Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
1992 - 1996 Ford F-150 Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
1984 - 1991 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
1992 - 1996 Ford F-250 and F-350 Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
1997 - 1997 Ford F-250 and F-350 Heavy Duty Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
1967 - 1980 Dodge Full Size Pickup Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
1981 - 1993 Dodge Ram Pickup Pickup, with Standard or Step Bumper
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