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Trailer Brakes > Electric Drum Brakes > Brake Assemblies > 10 x 2-1/4 Inch > 3500 lbs Axle > Right Hand Side > Manual Adjust > Dexter

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10" Electric Brake Assembly - Right Hand

Dexter Trailer Brakes

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17 reviews


Code:   23-27

Retail:$44.60

Price:$37.95

Shipping Weight: 11 pounds

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Dexter Trailer Brakes - 23-27

Dexter 10" x 2-1/4" Right Hand Electric Brake Assembly

  • 3,500 lbs Capacity per Pair
  • Mounts with 4 Bolts (included)
    • Bolt holes are 2-7/8" apart, center to center
  • Uses 10" Hub/Drums
Exploded Electric Brake Assembly

Video of 10" Electric Brake Assembly - Right Hand


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video review of trailer brakes and wiring
Trailer Brakes and Wiring Installation
Video Install Electric Brakes Trailer
This Old Trailer: Electric Trailer Brake Installation Part 1
Video This Old Trailer Hydraulic to Electric Brakes
This Old Trailer: Changing Hydraulic Trailer Brake to Electric
Video FAQ Changing Brakes
Changing Brakes Demonstration

Video Transcript for Trailer Brakes and Wiring Installation

Today we are going to show you how to install brakes on a trailer that does not have existing brakes. It is actually pretty easy to do it is just very time consuming. There are a few things you want to look out for before you start. One of those things is look being the existing hub you have. Make sure you have a flange like this on the axle. It is this 4 bolt flange on here if you have that on your axle your pretty much home free. You will see it on 3,500 pound axles like we have here. You also see it on 2,000 pound axles. On a 3,500 pound one you would probably use a 10 inch drum and on a lighter 2000 pounds, you would use a 7 inch size. Also you notice we have the hub missing. We have to take that off because the hub and drum assembly it is all in one piece. You have to take off the old hub get rid of it and start off fresh.

For this install we are going to install the backing plate. Basically it slides on like so then you just bolt it onto 4 places. A couple things you might want to take note of is there is a left and right side to it also an up and down. The magnet always stays pointed to the ground. If you did not have a sticker like this one does another way to tell is look for this bow here. The actuating arm or bow always points to the front of the trailer so thats a good reference point for you. At this point lets start bolting on our hubs. Works down in a criss cross pattern makes sure you have them evenly tightened. Go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. One thing to note while you are adding the hubs to a trailer. Take a look at the spindle. Take this spindle for example it is whats called an EZ Lube spindle it has a Zerk fitting on the end. What happens is grease travels through the middle of the spindle and comes out this hole here. If you have that it is great, but the thing is when you get a new hub you want to make sure what kind of seal it comes with. Most of the hubs will come with a regular single lip seal. You can see the just one lip right here. It has been around for ages and works great. However if you use this with an EZ Lube Spindle what happens is grease gets pulled in and applies pressure to this. So what you want to do is get whats called a double lip seal. As you can see here it has a lip on the inside edge here along with the lip on the outside too. This is double protection that keeps grease in and has a little bit extra pressure. You can also tell it is a double lip seal because it has a spring. Every double lip seal out there has a spring in it. So you have an EZ Lube Spindle or double check. Just to be on the safe side go ahead and order a double lip seal. You can see where our hub is sealed right on the end. You could call it the bearing or seal surface. This is where you are inside bearing rides right here. As you can see here there is the hole that the grease comes out between this seal and this bearing.

Once put together this whole area is going to fill up with grease. Of course it can not come from over top because your race is here. What happens is the grease comes up and fills up here first. Then comes through your rollers and actually through the middle of this cavity here. Then the whole thing gets packed full of grease. Once that is packed full of grease it will travel through the rollers of the outside bearing and come through here and out by the nut. Once the grease is full up to the the nut you know it is fully packed and ready to go. It is completely waterproof at the same time actually. At this point we can go ahead and slip on our hubs. We have our spindle lightly greased and our bearings are already packed so we will go ahead and put them together. Some spindles like this one come with a tang washer. If yours is just the normal spindle then you just have a counter pin that goes through. In this case we have the EZ Lube spindle so we will go ahead and assemble it. It is only one extra step involved. Make sure you take out any play. A little bit is fine just a hair is all you need. Then flip this edge into place like so. Get it to stop then bring it back one notch. If you had a regular spindle we would be finished by now but since we have the EZ Lube spindle we will go ahead and use that feature fully pack the bearings and bring out the grease to both bearings. Installing our hub is complete now. The next step is to adjust the brakes. From here what we need to do is go ahead and adjust our brakes. Basically what we are going to do is tighten up the drum until it stops turning. Then back off 10 clicks then you should have a very fine light drag. What we need to do now is go ahead and start running the wires. We are going to follow the factory harness back onto the driver side wheel. Then we are going to follow the axle on over to the passenger side wheel. Once you are by the axle here go ahead and leave a little loop for working room. Then make sure it is tied to your passenger side wheel. We will go ahead and at this point zip tie the wire to the axle. At this point you have your wire set across the axle the way you want it so we will go ahead and pull the slack up to the front of the trailer. We will go ahead and make our connection to the wires here. Make sure you note that one wire goes to ground and the other wire goes to positive. Again it does not matter the magnet does not care. We will go ahead and split our wire here. To make our connections there are a variety of different ways to do it. You can use the quick splice connectors like we are going to use here. You can also use butt connectors also it is more a personal preference. For clarity or ease of use we are going to use the quick splices here. From here you can tape them up or apply seal to them as you see fit. Then once these are sealed up you can zip tie them to the axle and keep them out of the way so they do not get smashed.

We will move over to our driver side now and what we are going to do is install our ground on the inside of the frame here. You can put it where ever you want but we are going to put it back here to make it a little nicer. Then run our ground wire all the way back up to the front. So we will just go ahead and open up the sheath again. We will then split our wire here and add 2 ring terminals there. Now what we did was run our wire and mix it in with the others up front making it look nice and neat. We are going to put our 7 pole connector on next. First you slide on the cover then you strip these wires and add ring terminals to them so the connector fits inside. It is time to connect to 7 pole connector. What you want to do is match up the colors obviously but there are a few different codes. For instance sometimes red is left turn but on the trailer it is actually yellow. The only common ones is white is ground wire and blue will be used as our black wire. Which the black wire is actually used on here as the 12 volt power lead. We will start off with the ones that match up and that would be the white. Then we will do the brake wire and on the trailer it is black but on the 7 pole it will be blue. Left turn on our trailer is yellow but the left turn on our 7 pole is red. We have green here which is running light and on the trailer it is brown. Finally green is right turn on our trailer and that is brown on our 7 pole. Next we put our connector back in with the little screw. We fix our loom and tighten the last screw. With that our installation is complete all we have to do is test it.






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Customer Reviews  -  Write a review about this product

10 - 23-27

Average Customer Rating:  ratingratingratingratingrating4.9 out of 5 stars   (17 Customer Reviews)




10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Ron01/06/2011

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Good deal on brakes So easy to install; it comes all complete. I only needed the magnet but for a couple of bucks more I got the whole assembly. Only a couple of days to get it, real easy to do business. I recommend etrailer.com 5096



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Skip T.06/22/2011

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The magnets on my horse trailer brakes were weak and worn. I found THE ENTIRE BRAKE ASSEMBLY, MAGNET INCLUDED, on etrailer dot com for less than the local RV parts desk wanted for a single magnet! No messing with clips, springs or wire routing. Just R&R four nuts holding the assembly to the spindle, a few flips of the brake adjustment spoon and DONE! Outstanding value! AND... ...the assemblies are MADE IN THE USA! Thanks, etrailer!17704



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Doug04/30/2011

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Love not having to spend half a day cleaning and assenbling the breaks12616



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Andrew01/25/2012

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Great deal! Only cost a few dollars more to replace the backing plate and components than to purchase new shoes. If you're debating whether to replace just the shoes, or the whole backing plate I'd recommend you replace the whole backing plate. It's far easier (4 nuts vs 3 springs and more), and ensures that everything is in good working order. One caveaut, however: it's not easy to replace backing plates when the nuts are severely rusted (in my case, it took cutting most of them off). FYI, I'm using these with drums marked "8-249-07" NOTE: You'll need (4) 7/16-20 nuts if you're not planning on using the originals. Bolts are included.30304



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Alex G.01/12/2012

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Made in the USA 29584



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Don F01/06/2012

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Didn't come with nuts, had to make a trip to town to get fine threaded nuts, easy to install29172



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Chris I.12/28/2011

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Great price. Fast free shipping. *** **!28797



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Anonymous10/26/2011

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Excellent factory part. Direct replacement. Swap couldn't of been easier then removing the four nuts holding the backing plate in place and put the new one on using the old nuts. Resolder the wires and your all set.26130



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: BILL A.09/09/2011

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EXPECTED IMPORT PRODUCT AT THAT PRICE. COULD NOT BELEIVE IT IS AMERICAN MADE. VERY SATISFIED.23698



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Dale F.08/17/2011

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Quickest and easiest brake job I've ever done. Did all 4 wheels in a few hours. Did not have to remember how everything goes back together, just 4 bolts to remove and reinstall, and done. Best of all, made in the USA! Keep Americans working! 22022



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: David T08/10/2011

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Very fast shipping great to do business with21542



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Dave D.07/26/2011

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Perfect fit. 20297



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Larry04/21/2011

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Fast delivery and and a perfect fit. 12151



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Ted H.03/30/2011

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Great products!!! 10712



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Bubba02/28/2011

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Great People, excellent product. A+++++ +++++8084



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Fred B02/16/2011

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The Brake shoes and backer plate assembled was a great deal and time saver7285



10 - 23-27

ratingratingratingratingrating by: John Houser01/02/2011

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Customer Service I have been needing brakes for a while,I just couldnt pass up the free shipping.Parts at my home VERY fast.Thanks so much..John4893




Ask the Experts about this Dexter Trailer Brakes
Expert Answers about 10" Electric Brake Assembly - Right Hand - 23-27                                             Do you have a question about this Trailer Brakes?


  • Will the Dexter Brake Assemblies Work with Hayes Hub and Drum Assemblies
  • As long as the brake assemblies are the same size and the mounting flange bolt pattern is the same you can use the Dexter brakes with your Hayes brake drum and hub assembly. Check your mounting flange dimensions and you should get a 4 bolt pattern 2-7/8 inches on center. If your brake assembly has a different mounting pattern you may need the 10 inch Electric Brake Assembly, Hayes, item # 60202703 and # 60202803.
    view full answer...

  • What Hardware is Included with Electric Brake Assemblies like Part # 23-27
  • The studs are built into the assembly, but they are not shipped with nuts or washers. I would recommend using some sort of locking washer with a locking nut, nylon or otherwise, to make sure the assembly does not loosen.
    view full answer...

  • Can Drums from a Trailer with 10 Inch Hydraulic Brakes be Re-Used When Converting to Electric Brakes
  • With 10 inch brakes, you can re-use your old drums so long as they are in good condition, and not scored or cracked. You would use part # 23-27 for your right hand side brake assembly and part # 23-26 for your left hand side. You could also use Nev-R-Adjust brake assemblies that do not require brake adjustment as they automatically adjust to deliver proper braking force. They are part # 23-469 for right hand side and part # 23-468 for left hand. I have also included a link to an installati
    view full answer...

  • Will Dexter Electric Brake Assemblies fit Axis Hub and Drums
  • As long as the Axis hubs will accommodate brakes shoes that are 2-1/4 inches wide, they should work fine with the Dexter electric brake assemblies we carry. You would use part # 23-26 for the left hand side.
    view full answer...

  • Replacing Electric Trailer Brake Shoes and Magnets on a 2 Axle Scotty Camper with 4 Bolt Wheel
  • The best way to determine the correct parts for your brake assemblies is to either measure the diameter of the brake drum and the width of the pads on the shoes and determine the manufacturer or to use the inner and outer bearing part numbers and wheel bolt pattern to determine the hub on your trailer. The 8-147 number that you referenced is a casting number that is not related to the actual part number. The # 23-27 brake assembly is for 10 X 2-1/4 inch brake drums. Since your hubs wheel p
    view full answer...

  • Why are Electric Brakes Getting Hot on 98 Coleman Camper After Installation of New Brake Assemblies
  • It sounds to me as if there is one of three problems going on. The most likely problem is that the brake assembly on the right side is not properly adjusted. There is an access hole in the backing plate to insert a brake adjusting tool through and turn the adjuster in or out to properly adjust the trailer brakes. We have a video on trailer brake installation and at 4 minutes 40 seconds trailer brake adjustment is shown. Tighten up the brakes inside the drum until it stops turning. Then back o
    view full answer...

  • Brake Controller has Power Output When Vehicle Headlights are Turned On
  • What it sounds like is that the red wire on the brake controller is not connected to the correct wire on the brake switch above the brake pedal. To find the correct wire, you will need a circuit tester like Quickee # 3808, or multimeter like # BTMT15. Find the wire that carries a signal or voltage ONLY when the brake pedal is pressed. There should not be a signal or voltage at any other time. So if you find a wire that carries a signal when the brake is pressed but also has a signal if the light
    view full answer...

  • Tips to Keep a Proportional Brake Controller Level When Installing
  • Electric proportional brake controllers are required to be manually leveled by hand according to the parameters outlined in the installation instructions. Not all brake controllers have the same mounting range so you need to make sure you follow the instructions. One thing proportional brake controllers have in common is that in addition to the specific mounting range, they also cannot be tilted left or right or lean to one side or the other. They need to be mounted in the direction of trave
    view full answer...

  • How Tight Should the Nuts be When Attaching a Trailer Brake Assembly to a Trailer
  • When installing brake assemblies like the Electric Brake Assembly, # 23-27, that you have referenced, there is no specific torque rating when tightening the nuts on the backing plate. Basically you will want them to be as tight as you can get them using the appropriate wrench. You will not need to use a breaker bar for extra torque when tightening the nuts. Take a look at the two videos linked below. Our installer does not mention a specific torque rating, but uses a wrench and tightens the nuts
    view full answer...

  • Proper Adjustment of 10 Inch Electric Brakes On Trailer
  • To adjust your brakes, you will want use a brake adjustment tool and turn the adjustment gear which is accessible through the back of the brake assembly. You will want to tighten the gear so that you cannot turn the wheel, then you will want to back the gear off 10 clicks. This will be the proper adjustment for the brakes and will need to be repeated on each brake assembly of the trailer (see video link). Another adjustment you will want to make is with your brake controller. If your brake co
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Brakes Do Not Lock Up and Show Low Voltage, What is the Right Voltage
  • I contacted our representative at Redline about the issue you are having with your trailer brakes and your 1996 Toyota 4Runner. He informed me that there should be 12 volts of power at the trailer brakes if the brake controller is putting out 12 volts. Start with your brake controller. Review the set-up instructions that came with your controller to make sure it adjusted correctly. Then, use a multimeter like part # BTMT15 to check the voltage on the blue output wire of the controller. With
    view full answer...

  • Troubleshooting Weak Trailer Brakes After Converting from Hydraulic to Electric Drum Brakes
  • There are several possible reasons why you have weak trailer brakes. Make sure the trailer is disconnected before testing the brakes. First, I recommend changing where the ground is located to a place closer to the brake assemblies. Make sure it is grounded to a clean and corrosion free location. Next, visually inspect the brakes for any grease or oil on the magnets and brake linings. Since the assemblies are new, it is unlikely that the magnets are bad or the drums have accrued grooves. But,
    view full answer...

  • Testing Trailer Brake Magnets with a Multimeter
  • You may have a problem with the brake magnet. First, since you have had the brakes apart, if you happened to notice any of the windings coming though on the magnets, that would indicate that they need to be replaced. Beyond that, in order to test the brake magnets, you will need to use a multimeter, like # BTMT15. We have an FAQ article on how to test the magnets and what to look for as far as resistance, amp draw, and testing for shorts. I have included a link to it for you to view.
    view full answer...

  • Should a Trailer Brake Magnet Make Contact with a Drum Even With No Brakes Applied
  • The magnet should only make contact with the inside of the brake drum when power is applied to the magnet. If it is making contact with the drum all the time, you may have residual power running on the brake wire that is just enough to cause the magnet to grab the drum. You will need to check the magnet power wire with a circuit tester, # 3808, to see if there is any power when the brakes are not applied. If there is, there is a short circuit somewhere and you will need to track it down. Look
    view full answer...

  • Brakes on 2011 Komfort Resort Tandem Axle Trailer Not Engaging Properly
  • I would begin by inspecting the magnets on the trailer brakes. If the magnets have windings or wear marks, the magnets are bad and will need to be replaced. You would need to match up your brake assembly size for the correct replacement magnet. The next thing you will want to check is the wiring to the brake assembly and the magnets. Make sure that the brake assembly has a good connection and that there are no cut or frayed wires. You will want to make sure the magnets are connected to a clea
    view full answer...

  • Troubleshooting a Dragging Electric Brake on a Trailer
  • It sounds like there is an electrical short on your trailer wiring that is activating your left rear brake assembly and that is why the brake continues to drag and get hot. Since you have swapped the brake assembly out and still had the problem you know the problem is not in the assembly but somewhere else on the trailer wiring. I would start at the wiring near the brake assembly and check for corrosion and loose or exposed wires and fix as necessary. You will want to trace this back up throu
    view full answer...

  • Does Dexter Electric Brake Assembly Part 23-27 Include the Backing Plate and Magnet
  • On brake assembly part 23-27, everything picture is included. The backing plate, brake shoes, linkage, magnet arm and magnet. The same goes for the left hand side assembly, part # 23-26. I have linked to a video below that shows these very assemblies being installed on a trailer.
    view full answer...






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