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18136Accessories and Parts 18136Accessories and Parts 18136

No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long

Draw-Tite Accessories and Parts

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7 reviews


Code:   18136

Retail:$13.29

Price:$9.99

Shipping Weight: 0.5 pounds

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Draw-Tite Accessories and Parts - 18136

Attachment Bracket for 6 and 7 Way Vehicle End Trailer Connectors

The hose clamp is used to secure this long bracket to the trailer hitch. The bracket then provides a sturdy place to attach the connector specific mounting bracket (Piece 2 of 2). This long bracket works great on 6 and 7 pole trailer connectors that need more space to mount.

  • 3" Wide x 6-1/2" Long

Note: Use this piece with any of the following mounting brackets to make a no-drill mount for your trailer connector:

  • Mounting Bracket 4-Pole Flat (#18144)
  • Mounting Bracket for 4-, 5- and 6-Way Connectors (#118137)
  • Mounting Bracket for 7-Way Standard Connectors (#18138)
  • Mounting Bracket for 7-Way OEM Connectors (#PK12711U)
  • Mounting Bracket for Wesbar 5-Pole Flat (#tr20046)
Mounting Bracket Display: Long Bracket (18136) with 4,5 and 6-Way Bracket (18137)

Please note: Many wiring adapters, specifically the 4 pole to 7 and 4 pole adapters, include the connector specific mounting bracket (piece 2 of 2).


Tow Ready #118136



Video of No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

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Video Transcript for Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2009 Dodge Dakota

Today on this 2009 Dodge Dakota, were gonna install a Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller part number 90195 along with an ETBC7 Kit.First I wanna install my 7-pole connector. Theres a bracket thats part of the ETPC7 kit that will assist us but were gonna add an additional bracket to the tow-ready universal long mount bracket part number 118136.Now were gonna take our clamp and were gonna tighten it down directly to the hitch.With my bracket secured and mounted, Im just gonna take a pair of tin snips and cutoff the extra from the band. With our bracket securely mounted, well go ahead and install the 7-pole connector.As you can see, we no longer need the 4-pole extension so Ill go ahead and remove that plug directly into the manufacturers harness.Well have our white wire here with a ring terminal, were gonna locate a ground. Our blue wire is gonna be the signal wire thats gonna come from our brake controller and our black wire will be our power supply that comes directly from our battery. The purple wire remaining is gonna be for our reverse lights on your trailer but well not be hooking up on this application.Lets go ahead and find a suitable location and ground the white wire.You see, weve chosen a location here in the bottom of the frame. Were gonna use a self-tapping screw to install it.With my ground wire installed, Im now gonna pull out the gray duplex wire that comes in our ETBC7 kit.

Were gonna strip it back so we can make connections to our blue and black wires coming from our 7-pole.Im gonna hook black to black and white to blue.Well then take our duplex wire and run it to the front of the vehicle. When running a duplex wire, theres couple of things to keep in mind of: stay away from the moving components such as the steering and suspension components and excessive heat such as the exhaust.Now we route it to the engine compartment, well go ahead and pull it up and secure it with zip ties.Now weve got our wires secured, lets go ahead and mount our breakers. Were gonna mount one 40-amp breaker to our battery supply to our 7-pole connector. Were gonna mount a 30-amp breaker thatll run to our brake controller.With our breakers mounted, were gonna strip back the gray duplex cable. Routing the white wire, which should go to the cab and the black wire which should go to the breaker and to the battery.We start by routing the black wire to the breaker first.Alright, now we got the power wire routed over to the breaker, Im gonna go ahead and cutoff the extra, well strip it back and add our ring terminal.Well go ahead and add a wire here to our breaker.Now lets head into the cabin of the vehicle where we can mount our brake controller and send out wires out from our brake controller to our breaker and battery.To mount our brake controller, were gonna use the packet style bracket and mount here on the dash.

Theres this two-piece bracket so well remove the bracket were gonna fix to the dash. Go ahead and take our provided screws and mount it directly to the dash. With our bracket mounted, were gonna install our brake controller.Next what were gonna do is go ahead and make the correct wire to hook up our brake signal switch and connect our red wire to.What Im using is a small piece of metal wire to back probe the connector that go through the brake switch. This way you dont have to probe the diodes themselves in creating the holes in the insulators. Im gonna connect my test light to a ground and then touch the wire (beeping sound) as you can see, this particular wire has constant power.

It is not the wire were gonna use for our brake signal.The next wire over is a white wire with a blue tracer, touch it with my test light, you can see by pressing the brake pedal, it sends power to this wire. (beeping sound). Well connect our red wire from our brake controller to the white wire with the blue tracer that comes out from the brake control switch.Now what were gonna need to do is select a location where were gonna run our wires out into the engine compartment and run a wire from the engine compartment inside to the cabin. The ground mitt here can be a perfect in using to run our wires through. Im gonna pull it here into the cabin and Im gonna make slice into the side of the garment with a utility knife to run our wires through.Im gonna take the white wire thats gonna be my ground coming out the brake controller and a black wire thats leftover from the wire that we ran earlier and Im going to attach them to a piece of hairline of fish wire so that it will assist me going through the hole in the firewall up into the engine compartment.Okay, now Im gonna go ahead and attach our wires and pull it through.Im gonna go ahead and take my red tube, go back into the cabin, feed it back up into the engine compartment and grab my white wire that we ran earlier from my 7-pole connector, connect it to the tube and pull it to the cabin of the vehicle.With all my wires pulled through, I can now go ahead and put my ground mitt back into position.We can now start and make our connections from our wires to the brake controller.

Well start with the ground, controller power and brake controller signals and then well go to our brake switch. Remember, the white wire from the 7-pole connection will connect with the blue wire and the brake control pigtail.The leftover duplex cable white wire will then connect to the ground and the black wire from the duplex cable will connect to the black wire from the pigtail and of course the red to the brake switch which has already been determined. To make this connection, well be using a quick connector.We can now plug the pigtail into the brake controller. Using some black tape and zip ties, Ill go ahead and secure my wiring into the dash. With all the wires connected and secured in the cabin, well now finish off by making our final connections to the circuit breakers and the battery. Well first route our ground wire over and add a ring terminal.Now that weve got our wires run through the breakers, we need to run our hot leads of the copper poles to the positive battery cable. Im gonna go ahead and take two of my leftover pieces of wire. Well strip them back. Add the ring terminals and follow the routing back around to the positive battery terminal.With all our connections made to our breakers, we can go ahead and tighten them down. Now well go ahead and route our two power wires over to the positive battery terminal also using the black zip ties supplied in our install kit to secure our wiring. While making my connections, Im gonna go ahead and add my ground wire connection to the negative battery terminal.When all of our connections already made, that completes the install of our Tekonsha P3 Brake controller part number 90195, our ETCB7 kit, the additional tow-ready bracket part number 118136 on our 2009 Dodge Dakota.









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Customer Reviews  -  Write a review about this product

No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

Average Customer Rating:  ratingratingratingratingrating3.6 out of 5 stars   (7 Customer Reviews)




No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Corey H01/03/2012

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Easy to use, functions as expected 29032



No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Mike10/15/2011

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Did not work on the round tube reciever hitch that was on this truck25609



No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: mike b08/06/2011

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the plate is fine but the strap to hold the plate on would not get tight. screw it until it was close then it would pop and be loose again. piece of garbage!!! had to go buy a new better one!!!21240



No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Ray B03/04/2011

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I received my package a day early and I installed my new trailer hitch in the same day. It took me about an hour to install it. I am very impressed with E trailer's service... I will defiantly will order again from E trailer. Thank you...8504



No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Deglen Isbell01/20/2011

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The product worked perfect and was shipped extremely quick .... very much pleased with ETRAILER and will be using them from now on for all my trailer needs ,,,,,,5765



No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: Jim C.12/10/2010

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Like dealing with merchants in the good old days! I first ordered an LED trailer plug converter from Etrailer over a year ago. Worked perfect until I broke it by driving away from the trailer without unplugging it. Bought three more. Etrailer kept me updated on the progress of the order, etc. Followed up with emails letting me know that the were backordered but would arrive soon. I have no idea how small or large this company is but it reminds me of dealing with a Mom and Pop hardware store in the old (i.e. 50s and 60s) days!3948



No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136

ratingratingratingratingrating by: RV Wren05/20/2009

Is this review helpful?


Discard the clamp The plate is great for mounting the plug connector. Open the package and toss the clamp. Buy a smaller clamp that actually can be tighten and loosen with ease. The one with the package is an engineering night mare. 1868




Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Accessories and Parts
Expert Answers about No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136                                             Do you have a question about this Accessories and Parts?


  • Will Draw-Tite No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long, # 18136, Mount On Round Tube Hitch
  • The Draw-Tite No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long, # 18136, will not tighten down around a round tube hitch. The bracket has a lip on it that will snug up against a square hitch and allow the hose clamp to tighten and hold the bracket in place. The lip on the bracket will keep the hose clamp from being tightened enough around a round tube hitch to keep the bracket secure. The bracket for the round tube hitch would be the Draw-Tite 6 and 7-Way Trailer Connector Mounting Box for Round Tube Hitches,
    view full answer...

  • 7-Way Trailer Connector Mounting Box that Will Fit Round Tube Trailer Hitch on 2003 Honda Odyssey
  • The No-Drill Mount Bracket, # 18136, is designed more for trailer hitches with square cross tubing. For round tubing like the hitch on your 2003 Honda Odyssey, I recommend the 6 and 7-Way Trailer Connector Mounting Box for Round Tube Hitches, # 18159. This mounting box can actually fit a square or round tube. It mounts to the cross tubing using a clamp and has a professional appearance.
    view full answer...






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