Easyline Galvanized Utility Trailer Kits with Torsion Axles - by Thule
The Easyline trailer is made of galvanized steel and uses a Torsion-Ride axle for superior handling. Its low deck and easy-tilt function take the pain out of unloading. Lights are recessed to deter breakage. Trailer rests on end for compact storage.
Features:
- Galvanized steel construction provides superior resistance to corrosion
- Torsion-Ride axle with independent suspension provides a smooth ride and superior handling
- Easy-tilt function means effortless loading and unloading (available on 3-1/2' and wider models only)
- Drive small ATVs or lawnmowers onto it
- Dump loads of rock or mulch out of it
- Trailer stands on end for easy storage
- Wiring system is durable and low-maintenance
- In-frame wire harness to eliminate dangling wires
- Easy installation with snap-together wiring
- Recessed lights to deter breakage
- Lighted license plate bracket for visibility
- Tarp buttons secure load coverings
- Enclosed sides with drop-down, removable tail gate
- Licensing paperwork included for ease of processing
Specs:
- Trailer bed dimensions: vary based on model
- Net weight: 161 lbs - 264 lbs
- Axle load capacity: 881 lbs - 1,653 lbs
- Payload capacity: 720 lbs - 1,389 lbs
- Tires and Wheels: 4.80 x 8 (on 3' wide models) | 4.80 x 12 (on 3-1/2' and wider models)
- 55 mph maximum highway speed
- White powder coated wheels for corrosion resistance
- Coupler: 2" ball
Complete trailer kit includes:
- Solid (1 piece) bed floor
- Sides
- Tail gate
- Torsion-ride axle
- Reinforced, painted steel fenders
- (2) Tires and Wheels
- Protected lights (stop, turn, tail, clearance, side markers and license plate) with snap together wiring harness and 4-pole trailer connector
- Coupler
- Safety cable
- Installation instructions
- Licensing paperwork
The trailer body, frame and sides are constructed of glavanized steel, which means it will not rust or corrode. The sides are completely enclosed, which helps prevent load loss when hauling loose materials such as mulch. The tail gate opens to a full 180 degree position, allowing it to hang straight down, and it can be removed for your convenience. The tail gate fastens closed with two heavy-duty, side-mounted, lockable gate latches. The torsion ride axle with its independent suspension improves handling and lowers ground clearance.
The torsion ride axle with its independent suspension improves handling and lowers ground clearance. The trailer's low deck height and easy-tilt function make loading and unloading easy. ATVs and lawnmowers can be driven into the trailer for transport, and the whole trailer can be tilted to dump out loads such as rock or dirt. To tilt the trailer, simply pull out the safety pin and turn the knob, releasing the catch. The pin is attached to the trailer by a lanyard, so you will never lose it while you are focusing on the tilt function.
This trailer's wiring system is simple, functional and durable. The lights connect easily with snap-together wiring. The wiring runs to the lights through channels on the underside of the trailer that conceal and protect the wires, and a built-in harness keeps exposed wires from dangling.
All towed trailers must be licensed. To simplify this process, the licensing paperwork is included in the kit. You fill out the forms and take them along to your local Department of Motor Vehicles.
Help
Wiring Trailer Lights ReviewTrailer Service Help
Tips on How to Tow a TrailerTrailer Breakaway Kit InstallationHow to Service Trailer Hub BearingsEasyLine Galvanized Utility TrailersQuestions and AnswersRecent Questions and Answers
View All Trailer Service Questions
Question:
I need to replace the hubs on my boat trailer. It is a 5-4 1/2. inner bearing L45449, outer L44649. I cannot find any hub with this bearing configuration. The inner bearing is the one which is the problem.
asked by: Frank last update: December 22, 2008
Reply:
Have these bearings ever been replaced? Is it possible that the wrong inner bearings were used? I too am unable to find a 5 on 4 1/2 bolt patterned hub that uses different sized inner and outer bearings. I cannot find a L45449 bearing at all, actually. Can you take a caliper and measure the diameter of the spindle? If it is 1.980" consistently all the way through, you should be able to use the Trailer Hub Assembly for 2000 lb. Axle, 5 on 4-1/2 - L44649 Bearings.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I bought a new to me 7X18 factory made Mirage flatbed tandem 7000# bumper pull trailer on which I want to a haul a Nissan Versa auto 2900# toward the rear and an Arctic Cat ATV crosswise in the front. The trailer has a 2X8 fir floor screwed to light metal cross members at two foot intervals. The perimeter is 5X1-3/4 inch channel. I can probably handle the ATV tie down with straps but would like to install wheel web tie downs for the car I think. It is kind of scary to me to look at that flat bed with no sides and think I am going to tow a car on it. Can you suggest a design and a parts and materials list I need? I think something like E-Track that would allow variable length cars and wheel webs that would hook into it like I have seen on rental rigs would work good but I dont know how to plan to attach it to this floor in terms of anchoring and spacing. Anchor on the metal perimeter where it is solid but 7 wide wide, or through the wood floor? How much lateral strain can the tie down anchors take if the car is narrower or wider than the anchors? Do I need tie downs front and rear or just front? Are redundant tie downs needed for safety in case of failure?
asked by: Gerry last update: December 16, 2008
Reply:
I cannot give you much in the way of design help or a parts list, that would not be my area of expertise. I can, however, give you some general advice. I'd start by taking a look at several different trailers used for hauling cars to get ideas. Using the wheel nets in conjunction with e-track would be a great idea, but I'd recommend you fasten them somehow to the metal cross members under the bed floor or something stronger than the wood floor. I'd also consider using axle straps, front and rear, as well. Some might consider that overkill, but if the car I was hauling were mine, I'd want to make darn sure it wasn't going anywhere. I don't have any information about the lateral strain the e-track and wheel net system can withstand, just the regular capacity information. The e-track is rated to handle 6,000 lbs, and the wheel nets are rated at 3,600 pounds each, with a safe working load of 1,200 lbs.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I have a ranger trail trailer. I was wondering how to remove the clear oil bath hub cover so I can change the seals on the hub. Does it unscrew or does it pop off. I am a little afraid to apply force to it for fear of cracking or breaking the clear see-thru hub. Can you give me some help with this matter
asked by: Richard last update: December 4, 2008
Reply:
The clear hub cover should be threaded and should unscrew.
reply by: Mike
Question:
how can you tell if your rear seal is bad
asked by: Robert last update: November 20, 2008
Reply:
If the rubber is cracked, and the seal is leaking, its time to replace it.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I removed the inner and outer races from my hubs on my Pace trailer. I tapped the outer races back in ok, but the inner races do not go all the way to the hub against the machined edge? I cant really remember if they were before, but just seems to make sense that they should. Tried using proper bearing/race driver/hammer,but still 1/4 inch gap left between race and inside edge of hub. Is there a trick/ heat?
asked by: Reg last update: November 20, 2008
Reply:
The race should drive in all the way to the machined edge. Are you replacing the bearings because the old ones blew out? If this is the case, when the bearings blew, the hub could have heated up the hub and deformed it enough to prevent the race from seating properly. Are there any nicks or burrs in the area where the race would seat that are keeping it from driving in any further? Are you certain that you have the correct race? If all else fails, you can always replace the hub if you need to (It just so happens that we have a great selection of trailer hubs.)
reply by: Mike
Question:
I will be installing 7 electric trailer brakes. What kind and size wire should I use to the brakes?
asked by: Nick last update: November 11, 2008
Reply:
We recommend using 10 guage wire on your brakes. We offer a 10ga blue pirmary wire that would work great for wiring your brakes. We also offer 2 Wire Jacketed 10 Gauge Brake Wire that might also be a good choice. You would use one lead to ground the brake assembly to the trailer frame, and the other could be used as the brake wire.
reply by: Mike
Question:
How do I replace a spindle? I have a 3500 pound axle. No brakes, just hub. How do I take the old spindle off
asked by: Rocky last update: October 22, 2008
Reply:
The spindles are welded in place onto the axle, and would need to cut off and new ones welded into place. Unless you are an experienced welder, this isn't really a do-it-yourself type of job. It's frequently easier to just replace the axle.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I have a trailer with full 2 I.D. hubs not 1.98. Where can I find grease seals and bearing caps in this size?
asked by: Eric last update: October 20, 2008
Reply:
We have a grease seal with a 2 inch inside diameter, and a 2.875 inch outside diameter. We also have a one with a 2 inch inside and a 3.066 outside diameter. By 'bearing caps' do you mean grease caps? The cap with the 1.986 outside diameter is as close to 2 inches as we have.
reply by: Mike
Question:
i would be very grateful if you could tell me how to fit a safety chain the second hand trailer i bought hasnt one
asked by: Wendi last update: September 30, 2008
Reply:
The typical way is to have the end of the chains welded onto the trailer frame somewhere near the coupler.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I noticed when I came home from camping the other day that my trailer was swaying when I would hit the brakes. So I jacked it up and found that only the right rear wheel was stopping. I reworked all the connections but it did cure the problem.
asked by: Larry last update: October 1, 2008
Reply:
I'd suggest that you use a circuit tester and check for voltage going into that brake assembly. You should see voltage going in when the brake override switch is activated. If you get no current, trace that wire back, looking for a break in the wire. If you do get voltage, you have a mechanical problem with that brake.
reply by: Mike
