Trailer Service Questions and Answers

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The bearing buddy cannot be overfilled, a pressure relief valve prevents this. How often they need to be filled will depend on how often the trailer is used. You'll be able to tell at a glance whether or not you'll need to add grease.

reply by: Mike

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What you want to do is certainly possible. The prices will vary depending on which brake assemblies you choose. Lets begin with your axle. Does it have a brake mounting flange welded onto it? You'll want to choose one for your axle diameter and capacity. What's the bolt pattern on the wheels you already have? You'll want your brake assemblies to have the same bolt pattern. Then wire the brakes, with one wire grounded to clean metal on the trailer frame, and the other to the trailer connector.

reply by: Mike

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Two things come to mind. Make sure that the spindle hasn't been damaged. Closely examine it all the way around. Spindles can be subjected to very high heat during a bearing failure, so make sure it's still in good shape. Make sure you are using the proper size seal. The wrong size would also prevent the hub from seating on the spindle correctly.

reply by: Mike

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To adjust the brakes, first jack up the trailer so that the one wheel is off of the ground. Obtain a brake adjusting tool (available at any auto parts store). On the rear of the brake, there is a rubber plug which needs to be removed, exposing the adjuster. Next, insert the adjusting tool into the hole, and use the tool to catch the teeth in the adjuster. Tighten until you can no longer turn the wheel by hand. Then back it off, or loosen it, by 10 clicks. This should leave a very slight drag on the wheel. Then repeat with each wheel.

reply by: Mike

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You'll want to manually adjust your brakes first, then break them in. To adjust the brakes, first, jack up the trailer so that the wheel in question is off of the ground. Obtain a brake adjusting tool (available at any auto parts store). On the rear of the brake, there is a rubber plug which needs to be removed, exposing the adjuster. Next, insert the adjusting tool into the hole, and use the tool to catch the teeth in the adjuster. Tighten until you can no longer turn the wheel by hand. Then back it off, or loosen it, by 10 clicks. This should leave a very slight drag on the wheel. Your brakes are then properly adjusted. To break them in, drive for a short distance with the manual over ride switch halfway on. You then might need to re adjust them slightly, but they should work great after that.

reply by: Mike

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Typically, the 'alignment' on trailer wheels isn't adjustable like on a vehicle. The fact that you feel they are out of alignment would seem to indicate that they are rubbing in one particular spot, and not all the way around. This can be caused by a number of things, such as a bent axle, or worn suspension parts. After examining your suspension to make sure everything is connected and in good shape, you might want to check with your local tire dealer. Sometimes you can get spacers that would fit between the hub and the wheel. This might bring the wheel out far enough to prevent it from rubbing.

reply by: Mike

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Under normal circumstances, the race doesn't come into contact with the spindle. The inside of the bearings ride on the spindle, while the outside rides on the race, which is compression fit into the hub. Any time a spindle is damaged, especially if the damage is on a surface that would come into contact with the bearings, you'd want to replace that spindle.

reply by: Mike

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The spindle is actually welded to the axle, at the point where it slides in. If you are not equipped to weld, you might want to order the appropriate spindle and then take it to a welding shop. Your other option would be to replace the entire axle.

reply by: Mike

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Bearing protectors take the place of the grease caps, and install the same way. You'll want to measure the outside diameter of your existing grease caps, and order the protectors with the same outside diameter.

reply by: Mike

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It sounds as if the rear seal on your hub probably failed. I'm not sure if the altitude and increased atmospheric pressure can affect the grease in bearings. I'm going to guess you are using bearing protectors. Sometimes the seal failure can result from age, or because the protectors were overfilled. I'ts hard to say. I'd recommend having your trailer serviced. This problem involves a separate system from your surge brakes. Unless you were leaking brake fluid, and your current braking system has been working fine for you, I wouldn't change it.

reply by: Mike

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Our 7" brake assembly, left hand and right hand are actually manufactured by Dexter, and will be compatable with your drums

reply by: Mike

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Your trailer brakes will probably need adjusting. Here's how to proceed. First, jack up the trailer so that the wheel in question is off of the ground. Obtain a brake adjusting tool (available at any auto parts store). On the rear of the brake, there is a rubber plug which needs to be removed, exposing the adjuster. Next, insert the adjusting tool into the hole, and use the tool to catch the teeth in the adjuster. Tighten until you can no longer turn the wheel by hand. Then back it off, or loosen it, by 10 clicks. This should leave a very slight drag on the wheel. Your brakes are now adjusted.

reply by: Mike

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We've never actually checked the temperature using a thermometer, but usually we find that the bearings are hot to the touch, but not too hot to handle. This would seem to put the temperatures you describe on the high side of what we experience, but probably not excessively so. Your dealer is probably on the right track. Are you towing your boat with a lot of gear in it? Overloading your trailer can cause the bearings to become overheated, so make sure you check the capacity of your trailer and ensure that you are not exceeding it.

reply by: Mike

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A few possible culprits. First, I'd ensure that the brakes are adjusted correctly. Using the adjuster tool, the brakes should be tightened until the wheel can no longer be turned by hand. Then back off, or loosen the brakes by 10 'clicks' of the adjuster. This should leave a slight drag on the wheel. Secondly, check your brake magnets for wear. If they have grooves worn in them, they need replacing. Also, check the inside surface of the brake drum. If they have grooves worn in them where they contact the brake magnets, the inside of the drums need to be resurfaced as well. Hopefully, this will take care of your problem.

reply by: Mike

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First, a couple of questions. Which shackle kit are you speaking of? Are you building a trailer, or repairing an existing one? On the trailer frame, forward and rear of the axle (single axle trailer) there is a shackle bracket which is welded to the frame. A bolt and two shackles would attach to this bracket, with another bolt passing through the other end of the shackles and the eye on the end of the leaf spring.

reply by: Mike

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The race is meant to fit very tightly in the hub. If it is loose, probably at one time the hub overheated, causing the metal to expand. Unfortunately, you'll have to replace the hub.

reply by: Mike

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You have the right size with the 1.980 (there is no mystery size). They are meant to be an extremely tight fit, and can be difficult to install. You'll have to use a hammer to get it squarely started (being as gentle as possible) and once started, place a piece of wood over the protector and whack the wood with the hammer to drive it in place.

reply by: Mike

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The best method is to use an old flat blade screwdriver, and moving in a circle, tap the races out from behind. You might have to give them a few good whacks, they are meant to fit tightly.

reply by: Mike

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Here's how to adjust your brakes. First, jack up the trailer so that the wheel in question is off of the ground. Obtain a brake adjusting tool (available at any auto parts store). On the rear of the brake, there is a rubber plug which needs to be removed, exposing the adjuster. Next, insert the adjusting tool into the hole, and use the tool to catch the teeth in the adjuster. Tighten until you can no longer turn the wheel by hand. Then back it off, or loosen it, by 10 clicks. This should leave a very slight drag on the wheel. Your brake is now adjusted.

reply by: Mike

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As long as the hubs are in good condition there is no need to replace those at the same time. For more information on how to check the condition of the hubs you can watch our video on line: Trailer Hub Inspection

reply by: Heather

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The most reliable way to make sure you are ordering the appropriate sized bearings is to actually check the bearings for a code engraved on them. You can also measure the inner and outer diameters plus the camper owner's manual may provide part numbers. Once you have that information I would be happy to suggest replacement parts or you can view our entire selection on line using the following link:
Bearings
If you are actually just looking for caps or bearing protectors the most common size for a 12" wheel is 1.980 diameter. We have a 1.980 Bearing Buddy. To make sure this is the correct size you can measure the diameter and check out our entire selection of Bearing Buddies.

reply by: Heather

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Your 7-way plug will most likely have a blue wire (industry standard color) for your electric brake wire. You would run that wire to the front of your vehicle and connect it to the blue wire on your electric brake controller. This will sync up your trailer brakes with your vehicle's. For more information on wiring for electric brakes, you may be interested in our brake controller information page.

reply by: Sarah

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My brake drum has two wires coming off it, is one wire to be grounded and the other to be wired to the blue connection on the plug that hooks upto the truck?

reply by: Brian

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Yes, you will ground one wire and the other will be run to your blue electric brake wire to power the brakes.

reply by: Sarah

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We offer a Bearing Kit, which includes One Inner Bearing and Race, One Outer Bearing and Race, a Grease Seal and a Cotter Pin. If you would like to purchase only the Grease Seals, we offer a pack of 2.

reply by: Paige

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Usually the closer the trailer is to the back of the vehicle, the better towing performance you will have. However, if you are not experiencing a lot of sway while towing you should not need to shorting the trailer tongue.

reply by: Sarah

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To set up the wiring so the trailer battery gets charged while towing you will need to connect a wire to that battery that connects to the hot lead or 12v pin on the trailer connector. You will also want to install a battery isolator; you can see this and an isolator wiring kit on our web site.

reply by: Heather

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With the wheels in the air, run the adjuster up till the wheel does not move any more. Back off 10-12 clicks until there is only a slight dragging sound on the brakes . That should be all you need to do to successfully adjust the brakes.

reply by: Heather

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Just keep rotating the hub, tapping on the cap with a hammer/mallet as you go. It should eventually loosen itself up.

reply by: Amanda

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The magnet should work once power is applied. If it is not working with power and a ground, then it does sound like the magnet may be worn out. You may want to look at the brake assembly magnets we offer.

reply by: Sarah

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We recommend checking the light you replaced making sure it is fully connected and no dirt or debris is clogging the electrical. Also double check the ground, needs to be clean.

reply by: Heather

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Thanks a million, your 100% correct. The socket spring had spinned loosing contact with the bulb. I had bought the wrong light from the beginning.

reply by: Johnny

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The brake assemblies should have two wires coming out from the back of each hub. One of the wires must be grounded and the other wire must be routed up to the tongue of the trailer's 6 or 7 Way Connector. If you have multiple brake assemblies, the wires must be ran together up to the front of the trailer's connector. Once the wire is ran to the front of the trailer, they will get spliced into the blue wire coming from the 6 or 7 Way Connector.
In order to activate the brakes on the trailer, you must have a brake controller and 7 Way installed on the vehicle. If your vehicle does not have a 7 Way Plug installed, you will need to manually run the wires to complete a 7 Way. We offer a 7 Way Brake Controller Installation Kit, which includes all of the wire (except an existing 4-Flat) and necessary items to properly function a brake controller.
Please note this kit utilizes an existing 4 Flat Plug. If you do not have this installed, you will need to install the T-One Connector. You can use the HitchHunter to find the available wiring for your vehicle.
Our best selling brake controller is the Tekonsha Prodigy. Many customers purchase this model because of the sleek design and that it is equipped with a self-adjusting sensing device for easy set up.

reply by: Paige

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I would opt for a trailer that has a platform length as close to the length of the car as possible. Keep in mind that most car trailers have a dove tail and it is normally added into the overall length of the trailer. Any excess length could cause additional sway to the trailer.

reply by: Amanda

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It sounds like the plastic box you found is most likely for a break-a-way kit. This kit ensures if the trailer should become disconnected from the tow vehicle the brakes would be activated to stop it. You can view our break-a-way kits using the following link and see if the box matches what we have pictured:
To activate electric brakes you will need a brake controller in the tow vehicle, if you do not already have this. I would be happy to list exactly what parts you would need if you want to tell me the year, make, model and current trailer wiring plug on your vehicle.
The following links will hopefully answer all your questions regarding the trailer brakes and wiring.
Wiring information
Video on trailer wiring
Video on trailer brakes

reply by: Heather

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The frequency with which you need to grease the wheel bearing really depends on how the trailer is used. If you let the trailer set for a longtime (6-8 months) the grease could separate form the bearing surfaces, also condensation could form, adding water to the grease and making it diluted. Also all that weight standing in one spot could be bad on the bearings. On a trailer that is used a lot, the grease keeps getting spread around which is better for it as long as the seal holds out. To answer your question you should definitely grease every few years however, there is no hard rules about it. A Boat trailer would be more apt to a once a year inspection since they do get dunked in water.
We have a video on our web site about bearings and repacking them that you may be interested in.

reply by: Heather

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We do have the parts you have listed. You can view the details on these using the following links:
L44649
L44610
RG06-010
RG04-020

reply by: Heather

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Your trailer would exceed the weight limit. The triple axles at 6000LBS would give you 18000LBS. If the trailer is 7400LBS and your load is 12000LBS that puts you at 19400LBS.

reply by: TJ

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We do sell the tang and D lock washers for the 1" easy lube spindles.

reply by: Bridget

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Assuming your spindle is ok, you need to double check your bearings and grease seal to make sure they are correct. If you are only 3/4" - 1" off, it is likely that the inner diameter of the grease seal is not large enough, thus not allowing it to seat onto the spindle properly.

reply by: Amanda

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Since you have old and new brakes working together, one is going to be stronger than the other. Having the all the same adjustment will get them closer. They will never work at the same time exactly, but adjusting the same way on all the brakes will get you closer.
The first thing I would do is adjust the brakes to make sure they are the same. Tighten the brakes until you cannot turn by hand then back off 10 clicks; you should end up with a light drag. Another thing to check is the connections to the older brakes. The splices to the harness could be corroded and acting like a resistor holding back current. New connections will rule that out.
Also, do this for the ground coming from the brakes. If this happens while the trailer is empty, it is possible that the trailer just does not have enough weight and locks up easier.
Lastly the springs and brake pads on the older brakes may not be strong enough. They might still work fine, but just not grab as well. The new brakes will wear in over time. Proper break in would be applying the brakes at half power and dragging them for 1/8 to 1/4 of a mile. Don’t lock up, just heat up. Do this with a load too. This solves most problems, we see this same thing a lot on car haulers with the tongue 2-4" above level. Make sure when your loaded up you end up level.

reply by: Amanda

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Some of the older couplers did not have the standard latch to latch the coupler over the ball. Instead they had a knob that you turn to tighten the coupler over the ball; it sounds like this is what you are describing. If so, yes, it is very important. If you coupler is not secure on the ball, you should not tow. The following link will take you to all of our replacement couplers.

reply by: Amanda

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I was at the saw a cap not too much different from my own but on a triler 1/2 the size of mine. I opened it up and saw fluid withen. Could this be a reservoir for hydralic fluid? I proceeded cautiously to uncap my unit but saw a ton of rust withen. I need to keep this trailer for a year or so...would you deem the trailer hazardous? The lift still works without fluid tho.

reply by: Bill

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From the information you've given me, you basically have a trailer without working brakes. I would recommend that you get the brakes working. You will definitely need a new Master Cylinder and possibly new fluid lines (you will want to bleed the lines to see if you can get them to run clear). Although, your best bet would probably be to replace the entire master cylinder. We offer three different Master Cylinder's for different actuator manufacturer's. The manufacturer of your actuator may be stamped somewhere on the unit. The following links will take you to them on our web site:
BP30-010
85841
10614
The following link will take you to all of the Replacement Hydraulic Actuators (Couplers) on our web site; it will also take you the replacement lines kits
Brake Actuator Couplers

reply by: Amanda