Trailer Brake Controller Information

An electric trailer brake controller is a device that supplies power from the tow vehicle to the trailer's electric brakes. Many styles are available that differ from how they look, to the number of brakes they can power, but all of them can be divided up into two main groups, Proportional or Time Delayed.

A proportional (or pendulum) brake controller senses how quickly the tow vehicle is stopping and applies the same amount of braking power to the trailer. With a Time Delayed (or solid state) brake controller when you step on the vehicle brakes a predetermined amount of braking power is sent to the trailer and then there is a delay as the unit ramps up to full braking power.

Proportional and Time Delayed Brake Controller Comparison

Proportional Brake Controller

With proportional brake controllers, once the brake pedal is stepped on, a motion sensing device knows how fast the tow vehicle is stopping. It then applies power to the trailer brakes equally as fast (or slow) as the towing vehicle. This allows the trailer to stop at the same rate as the tow vehicle. Therefore, in an extreme stopping situation where the vehicle brakes are slammed on, a proportional controller will immediately send the maximum preset power to the trailer brakes.

This type of brake controller provides the smoothest and quickest braking while also providing the least amount of wear on both the vehicle and trailer's brakes. Proportional controllers are "enabled" by the brake pedal switch and "activated" by a pendulum circuit that senses the vehicle's stopping motion and applies a proportional voltage to the trailer's brakes. When properly adjusted the trailer will decelerate at the same rate as the tow vehicle, increasing braking efficiency and reducing brake wear.

Time Delayed Brake Controller

With Time Delayed trailer brake controllers, once the brake pedal is stepped on, the pre-determined amount of power (which is set by the user, based on trailer weight) is sent back to the trailer brakes. On time delayed controllers, a delay always exists from when the brake pedal is pushed to when the unit reaches the user set, maximum power output. The delay can be shortened or lengthened with the 'sync' switch, available on most time delayed controllers, but it behaves the same way for every stop (slow or fast). If the sync switch is set too low, the vehicle will do most of the initial braking, putting extra strain on the vehicle's brakes. If the sync switch is set too high, the trailer will be braking harder. So in most cases, either the truck or the trailer will be doing the majority of the braking, resulting in uneven brake wear.

The time delayed brake controller system is easily installed and is very user friendly. It can be mounted at any angle. It also has a low profile. The amount of power that is sent back to the brakes is adjustable using a control on the brake controller. With most time delayed brake controllers, when towing with the hazard flashers on, the digital display will flash with the hazard flashers. If the brake controller is set to aggressively, pulsing may occur which will be felt in the trailer brakes. However, a pulse preventer can isolate the brake controller from the flashers and will eliminate the pulsing and flashing on the controller. A pulse preventer is not necessary for vehicles that have a different bulb for the stop and turn signals, which is typical of vehicles with amber turn signals.

Similarities:

• Allow the user to adjust the maximum braking power to match the weight of the trailer being pulled
• Have a manual override trigger that can be used to apply only the trailer brakes
• Have the same wiring configuration for installation

Differences:

• Cost: Time Delayed will typically be less expensive, although recent advances in Proportional Brake Controllers have made the cost difference much narrower.
• Braking Performance: Time Delayed always sends the same braking power to the trailer, Proportional will vary the braking power based on how quickly the tow vehicle is stopping producing a smoother braking action.
• Wear and Tear: Time Delayed will cause more wear on either the trailer or vehicle brakes because one or the other will be doing the majority of the braking. Proportional reduces wear by spreading the braking power evenly.
• Mounting: Time Delayed may be mounted in any position and at any angle. Proportional will typically need to be mounted within a certain range, such as within 70 degrees of level, to work properly.
• Calibration: Time Delayed will typically not require calibration. Some models of Proportional brake controllers need to be calibrated to work properly, but most of the newer models are self calibrating or have a very simple calibration, so they are nearly as easy to set up as time delayed.
• Size: Time Delayed have traditionally been smaller and slimmer than Proportional, but newer models of proportional controllers come in shapes and sizes very similar to Time Delayed.
• Use: Time Delayed are best for the casual user. Proportional should be considered if the trailer will be towed often because they operate well in diverse towing conditions and produce less wear on the braking systems.
• Safety: Proportional brake controllers provide an additional level of safety because they will automatically ramp up to full power if the tow vehicle makes an emergency stop.

Typical Brake Control Wiring Diagram

Hitch supplied brake controllers require 4 wire connections.

1. Trailer Feed (usually blue): This is the wire that supplies brake power for the controller to the 6-way or 7-way trailer connector at the back of the vehicle. Some vehicles with factory tow packages already have this wire run from under the dash to the rear of the vehicle. Otherwise, the wire will need to be run along the underside of the vehicle and through the firewall to the desired Brake Control mounting location. To get through the firewall, sometimes a hole must be drilled. However, grommets or pre-existing holes are already available in most vehicles.

2. Ground (usually white): This wire is connected from the brake controller to any reliable ground location.

3. Brake Switch (usually red): This can be found near the top of the brake pedal. There are wires extending from the switch and using a circuit tester, the wire that has power when the brake pedal is pressed can be found. This wire is tapped into using a scotch lock.

4. Battery Power (usually black): This is the connection that supplies power to the brake controller. Some vehicles with factory tow packages already have this wire run from under the dash to the battery with some kind of circuit protection. Otherwise, a wire must be run through the firewall and connected directly to the battery with an in line circuit breaker.

OEM Supplied Brake Controller Wiring Harness Color Guide

If your vehicle did not come equipped with a brake control wiring harness, a brake controller wiring adapter may be available for your vehicle which will provide a simple plug-in installation.

If your vehicle came with a factory provided brake contoller wiring harness, the chart below can be used to help match wire colors

Vehicle Make	OEM Supplied Wiring Harness Colors	Brake Controller Wire Colors	Function
Chevrolet	Red	Black	+12 Volts
	Light Blue	Red	Stoplight
	Black	White	Ground
	Dark Blue	Blue	Trailer Brakes
	Brown	NA	Illumination
New Dodge (Green Wire)	White with Red Tracer	Black	+12 Volts
	Blue with White Tracer	Red	Stoplight
	Green with Black Tracer	White	Ground
	Blue	Blue	Trailer Brakes
Dodge	Red with Black Tracer	Black	+12 Volts
	White with Tan Tracer	Red	Stoplight
	Black	White	Ground
	Blue	Blue	Trailer Brakes
New Ford (Pink Wire)	Pink	Black	+12 Volts
	Red	Red	Stoplight
	White	White	Ground
	Blue	Blue	Trailer Brakes
	Brown	NA	Illumination
Ford	Red	Black	+12 Volts
	Light Green	Red	Stoplight
	White	White	Ground
	Dark Blue	Blue	Trailer Brakes
	Brown	NA	Illumination
Toyota	Black with Red Tracer	Black	+12 Volts
	Green with White Tracer	Red	Stoplight
	Brown	White	Ground
	Red	Blue	Trailer Brakes
	Green	NA	Illumination
Toyota (2003) and Lexus	Black	Black	+12 Volts
	Green with Yellow Tracer	Red	Stoplight
	White with Black Tracer	White	Ground
	Red	Blue	Trailer Brakes
	Green	NA	Illumination
Nissan and Infinity	Red	Black	+12 Volts
	Red with Green Tracer	Red	Stoplight
	Black	White	Ground
	Brown with White Tracer	Blue	Trailer Brakes
	Red with Blue Tracer	NA	Illumination
Volkswagen and Porsche	Cavity #2 (Red with Yellow Tracer)	Black	+12 Volts
	Cavity #3 (Black with Red Tracer)	Red	Stoplight
	Cavity #1 (Brown)	White	Ground
	Cavity #4 (Blue)	Blue	Trailer Brakes
Honda	Blue	Black	+12 Volts
	White with Black Tracer	Red	Stoplight
	Black	White	Ground
	Brown with White Tracker	Blue	Trailer Brakes

Information courtesy of Tekonsha, vehicle manufacturers change wiring configurations regularly, use a circuit tester to verify all connections.

Recent Brake Controller Questions and Answers

View All Brake Controller Questions

Question:

I have a 1996 Chevy Caprice 5.7L and I just bought a 2007 Camper. I wired up the brake controller, etc. to the camper using a 7-pin connector. The brakes for the camper work great when I use the controller. That is, when moving, if I lightly hold down the controller lever, the trailer brakes come on lightly and if I hold the lever all the way down, the brakes come on strong. However, when I tap my brake pedal lightly as when approaching a red light, the trailer brakes lock up as if Ive just panick-braked. Any clue as to what Ive done wrong?

asked by: Tim       last update: January 5, 2009

Question:

I have a 2002 gmc pickup, and a valley brake controller. I should have 1 dot when im not hooked to the trailer i have none, i should have 2 dots when i am hooked to the trailer i have none. my brake voltage when i step on the brake is not ramping up it straight to 12v however on my brake controller the number is ramping. I have checked to make sure that my dark blue that the controller hooks up with is the same wire as my brake coil position on my plug

asked by: Mike       last update: January 5, 2009

Question:

I have a 2006 Dodge 2500 w/factory tow package. I am trying to install a brake controller with a hopkins 47755 hoppy connector, however there is no plug under the dash that will fit the 4-pin blade connector. The only available plug that I have found under the dash is half of the size of the hoppy adaptor and has two rows with three pins on the top row and two pins next to each other on the bottom row. I have looked everywhere under the dash.

asked by: Michelle       last update: December 31, 2008

Question:

I recently got rid of a dodge Durango. I unplugged my Tekonsha brake controller. I am now in need of wiring harness for A 2006 chevy Trailblazer. It is equipped with factory trailer tow prep.

asked by: Rich        last update: December 31, 2008

Question:

Hi, I have a 2004 Dodge ram 1ton. The trailer breaks were not working so I assumed the box was bad. I put a new one in and they still didnt work. I put a test light on the ground and to the break signal wire and when I do that it appears that it is working or at least the box lights light up when I hit the break. It does the same if I hook the tester to the power wire. I pulled the new box out and put one in from a different truck which has the digital display of how strong the break setting is. When I hit the break the display shows it is very weak even when I adjust it all the way up. I cant figure out what the problem is.

asked by: Micah       last update: December 30, 2008

Question:

My 2005 Ford lariat does not have the factory towing harness install at the rear. I have the small trailer 4 pin 3 female/1 male under the bumper. I need to be able to tow a motorcycle trailer that had a 7 pin round RV plug. I also want to put a brake controller in the cab. The plugs are there but do I also need extra fuses or relays?

asked by: Fred       last update: December 30, 2008

Question:

I have a 2007 Trailblazer LS that I want to hook up a brake controller. I am looking at the Prodigy V2.6. I have done some research as I would like to hook it up myself. From what I have seen the GMC and Silverado are different as the two wires under the hood that tie in the battery for the travel trailer and the electric brake on the TT should have ring lugs. I find a red wire for the battery, but not a black/white one for the brakes. The SUV has the factory installed 7 pin set up and works fine when I plug in the TT, but I want to add the brake control for added safety.

asked by: Charles       last update: December 29, 2008

Question:

How do you what setting to use on a Hopkins 47235 brake controller. You can adjust it from 1-99, my trailer weighs about 4500 lbs

asked by: J. Douglas       last update: December 29, 2008

Question:

I have a Honda ridgeline 2007, I need wiring instructions for the HOPKINS MODEL NO. 47225 BRAKE CONTROLLER.

asked by: Roger       last update: December 29, 2008

Question:

Electric brakes worth it? I recently purchased a small tent trailer that has electric brakes, but also has a standard 4 wire connector. The dry weight of the trailer is about 1900 lbs. and our tow vehicle is a 87 Toyota LandCruiser Wagon. Shall I wire up a e-brake controller, or is it not worth the cost in this situation?

asked by: Lennie       last update: December 29, 2008

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