Breakaway Kit Installation for Single and Tandem Trailers
Breakaway kits are designed to bring trailers safely to a stop by activating the electric brakes should a trailer disconnect from the tow vehicle during transit. Ideally, the safety chains will prevent a trailer from disconnecting if the coupler comes off the ball. However, if the safety chains fail, the breakaway kit acts as a last line of defense against a runaway trailer. This type of safety system is required in most states for trailers weighing more than 3,000 lbs.
The following article will describe how to:
- Mount a trailer breakaway kit
- Wire the breakaway kit
- Details Hopkins, Tekonsha, with, and without a charger
- Attach to a vehicle
Before the breakaway kit installation begins, you will need:
- Breakaway kit - includes a breakaway switch and a battery contained in a mounting box
- Electric trailer brakes
- Connection to the auxiliary power wire from the tow vehicle
- needed only if the breakaway kit has a charger
Breakaway Kit Components:
- Breakaway switch - mounted to the trailer frame and has a cable that connects to the vehicle's frame
- If the trailer disconnects, the cable pulls a pin out of the switch, activating the trailer brakes.
- Breakaway battery box - houses a 12 volt battery and, in some models, a battery charger
Mounting the Breakaway Kit
- Locate a secure surface on the trailer to mount the breakaway kit battery box.
- A typical position is on the inside of one of the trailer frames in the front of the trailer.
- Self-tapping screws or U-bolts are usually included for mounting the battery box.
- Mount the breakaway switch close to the trailer coupler so the cable can be attached to the vehicle.
- Also, mount the breakaway switch close enough to the battery box so their wires can connect.
- A typical position is on the outside of the trailer frame between the trailer connector and the battery box.
- NOTE: The switch is held in place with only one screw.
- It needs to be tight but not so tight that it cannot rotate to allow the pin to be pulled out.
Wiring a Breakaway Kit
Breakaway Kit without a Built-in Charger
- Breakaway kits without battery chargers require three connections.
- Remember to periodically remove the battery from the box to charge it, or replace it accordingly.
- Splice one of the two wires coming out of the breakaway switch into the trailer brake wire running from the trailer connector to the brakes.
- Connect the second wire coming out of the switch to the brake wire (blue) coming out of the battery box.
- This connection will send power to the breakaway switch.
- NOTE: Both wires on the breakaway switch are interchangeable.
- Splice the white wire coming out of the battery box into the existing ground wire (usually white) running from the trailer connector to the trailer, or screw the white wire directly to the trailer frame.
Hopkins Breakaway Kit with a Built-in Charger
- Hopkins breakaway kits with built-in chargers require four connections.
- One connection has already been made inside the battery box.
- The following diagram shows a typical wiring configuration for a Hopkins breakaway kit with a battery charger.
- Some other manufacturers have similar configurations, but not all wire colors are the same.
- Consult your breakaway kit directions before installation to verify the wiring configuration.
- Splice one of the two wires coming out of the breakaway switch into the trailer brake wire running from the trailer connector to the brakes
- See point A on the wiring diagram
- Connect the second wire coming out of the switch to the brake wire (blue) coming out of the battery box.
- See point B on the wiring diagram
- This connection will send power to the breakaway switch.
- NOTE: Both wires on the breakaway switch are interchangeable.
- Splice the white wire coming out of the battery box into the existing ground wire (usually white) running from the trailer connector to the trailer, or screw the white wire directly to the trailer frame
- See Point C
- Splice or run the 12 volt hot lead (black) coming out of the battery box into the 12 volt hot lead running from the trailer connector to the trailer
- See Point D
- This connection will charge the battery when the vehicle is in use.
Wiring a Tekonsha or Tow Ready Breakaway Kit with a Built-in Charger
The Six Required Connections:
- Splice one of the two wires coming out of the breakaway switch into the trailer brake wire running from the trailer connector to the brakes.
- Open the battery box and connect the second wire coming out of the switch to the positive post (red) on the battery.
- This connection will send power to the breakaway switch.
- NOTE: Both wires on the breakaway switch are interchangeable.
- Connect the red wire on the charger to the positive post (red) on the battery.
- This connection charges the battery.
- There should now be two wires connected to the positive post: the second switch wire and the red charger wire.
- Connect the black wire on the charger to the negative post (black) on the battery.
- Splice the white wire on the charger into the existing ground wire (usually white) running from the trailer connector to the trailer, or screw the white wire directly to the trailer frame.
- See point C on the wiring diagram shown above
- Splice or run the 12 volt hot lead (black for Tekonsha, yellow for Tow Ready) on the charger into the 12 volt hot lead running from the trailer connector to the trailer.
- See point D on the wiring diagram shown above
- This connection will charge the battery when the vehicle is in use.
Attaching the Cable to the Tow Vehicle
The breakaway switch cable needs to be secured to the vehicle bumper or frame. The cable can be attached in many different ways. The two most common methods are:
- Route the pin through the safety chain loops on the hitch or bumper, then through the cable loop
- Route the pin through a tow hook, then through the cable loop
or
Notes:
- The cable should come straight out from the switch to attach to the vehicle
- Any angular attachment may cause breakaway switch failure
- Secure the cable on the same side of the trailer frame as you mount the breakaway switch
- Do not loop the cable over the hitch ball; the cable may bounce off while the vehicle is moving
- Before towing, test the breakaway kit by pulling the pin out of the switch to activate the brakes
Help
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Question:
I need to replace the hubs on my boat trailer. It is a 5-4 1/2. inner bearing L45449, outer L44649. I cannot find any hub with this bearing configuration. The inner bearing is the one which is the problem.
asked by: Frank last update: December 22, 2008
Reply:
Have these bearings ever been replaced? Is it possible that the wrong inner bearings were used? I too am unable to find a 5 on 4 1/2 bolt patterned hub that uses different sized inner and outer bearings. I cannot find a L45449 bearing at all, actually. Can you take a caliper and measure the diameter of the spindle? If it is 1.980" consistently all the way through, you should be able to use the Trailer Hub Assembly for 2000 lb. Axle, 5 on 4-1/2 - L44649 Bearings.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I bought a new to me 7X18 factory made Mirage flatbed tandem 7000# bumper pull trailer on which I want to a haul a Nissan Versa auto 2900# toward the rear and an Arctic Cat ATV crosswise in the front. The trailer has a 2X8 fir floor screwed to light metal cross members at two foot intervals. The perimeter is 5X1-3/4 inch channel. I can probably handle the ATV tie down with straps but would like to install wheel web tie downs for the car I think. It is kind of scary to me to look at that flat bed with no sides and think I am going to tow a car on it. Can you suggest a design and a parts and materials list I need? I think something like E-Track that would allow variable length cars and wheel webs that would hook into it like I have seen on rental rigs would work good but I dont know how to plan to attach it to this floor in terms of anchoring and spacing. Anchor on the metal perimeter where it is solid but 7 wide wide, or through the wood floor? How much lateral strain can the tie down anchors take if the car is narrower or wider than the anchors? Do I need tie downs front and rear or just front? Are redundant tie downs needed for safety in case of failure?
asked by: Gerry last update: December 16, 2008
Reply:
I cannot give you much in the way of design help or a parts list, that would not be my area of expertise. I can, however, give you some general advice. I'd start by taking a look at several different trailers used for hauling cars to get ideas. Using the wheel nets in conjunction with e-track would be a great idea, but I'd recommend you fasten them somehow to the metal cross members under the bed floor or something stronger than the wood floor. I'd also consider using axle straps, front and rear, as well. Some might consider that overkill, but if the car I was hauling were mine, I'd want to make darn sure it wasn't going anywhere. I don't have any information about the lateral strain the e-track and wheel net system can withstand, just the regular capacity information. The e-track is rated to handle 6,000 lbs, and the wheel nets are rated at 3,600 pounds each, with a safe working load of 1,200 lbs.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I have a ranger trail trailer. I was wondering how to remove the clear oil bath hub cover so I can change the seals on the hub. Does it unscrew or does it pop off. I am a little afraid to apply force to it for fear of cracking or breaking the clear see-thru hub. Can you give me some help with this matter
asked by: Richard last update: December 4, 2008
Reply:
The clear hub cover should be threaded and should unscrew.
reply by: Mike
Question:
how can you tell if your rear seal is bad
asked by: Robert last update: November 20, 2008
Reply:
If the rubber is cracked, and the seal is leaking, its time to replace it.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I removed the inner and outer races from my hubs on my Pace trailer. I tapped the outer races back in ok, but the inner races do not go all the way to the hub against the machined edge? I cant really remember if they were before, but just seems to make sense that they should. Tried using proper bearing/race driver/hammer,but still 1/4 inch gap left between race and inside edge of hub. Is there a trick/ heat?
asked by: Reg last update: November 20, 2008
Reply:
The race should drive in all the way to the machined edge. Are you replacing the bearings because the old ones blew out? If this is the case, when the bearings blew, the hub could have heated up the hub and deformed it enough to prevent the race from seating properly. Are there any nicks or burrs in the area where the race would seat that are keeping it from driving in any further? Are you certain that you have the correct race? If all else fails, you can always replace the hub if you need to (It just so happens that we have a great selection of trailer hubs.)
reply by: Mike
Question:
I will be installing 7 electric trailer brakes. What kind and size wire should I use to the brakes?
asked by: Nick last update: November 11, 2008
Reply:
We recommend using 10 guage wire on your brakes. We offer a 10ga blue pirmary wire that would work great for wiring your brakes. We also offer 2 Wire Jacketed 10 Gauge Brake Wire that might also be a good choice. You would use one lead to ground the brake assembly to the trailer frame, and the other could be used as the brake wire.
reply by: Mike
Question:
How do I replace a spindle? I have a 3500 pound axle. No brakes, just hub. How do I take the old spindle off
asked by: Rocky last update: October 22, 2008
Reply:
The spindles are welded in place onto the axle, and would need to cut off and new ones welded into place. Unless you are an experienced welder, this isn't really a do-it-yourself type of job. It's frequently easier to just replace the axle.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I have a trailer with full 2 I.D. hubs not 1.98. Where can I find grease seals and bearing caps in this size?
asked by: Eric last update: October 20, 2008
Reply:
We have a grease seal with a 2 inch inside diameter, and a 2.875 inch outside diameter. We also have a one with a 2 inch inside and a 3.066 outside diameter. By 'bearing caps' do you mean grease caps? The cap with the 1.986 outside diameter is as close to 2 inches as we have.
reply by: Mike
Question:
i would be very grateful if you could tell me how to fit a safety chain the second hand trailer i bought hasnt one
asked by: Wendi last update: September 30, 2008
Reply:
The typical way is to have the end of the chains welded onto the trailer frame somewhere near the coupler.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I noticed when I came home from camping the other day that my trailer was swaying when I would hit the brakes. So I jacked it up and found that only the right rear wheel was stopping. I reworked all the connections but it did cure the problem.
asked by: Larry last update: October 1, 2008
Reply:
I'd suggest that you use a circuit tester and check for voltage going into that brake assembly. You should see voltage going in when the brake override switch is activated. If you get no current, trace that wire back, looking for a break in the wire. If you do get voltage, you have a mechanical problem with that brake.
reply by: Mike






