Brake Controller Installation: Starting from Scratch
Before Installation You Will Need:
- Brake Controller
- 7-Way Installation Kit (#ETBC7)
- 6-Way also available
- 4-Pole Trailer Connector (if not already installed)
Information About 7-Way and 6-Way Installation Kits
The 7-way Trailer Connector Has a Total of Seven Wires:
- Four of these wires need to be connected individually, and three lead to the 4-pole adapter.
- The 4-pole adapter will plug into the vehicle's own 4-pole trailer connector, allowing for basic wiring functions without the hassle of splicing or cutting into your vehicle system.
- The three basic wiring functions are for tail lights, stop lights and turn signals.
- NOTE:This 4-pole installation is vehicle specific.
- If your vehicle does not already have its own 4-pole trailer connector, use the Wiring Fitguide to find the harness recommended for your vehicle.
The Colors of the Remaining Four Wires:
- The first wire (black) runs to the vehicle's battery to supply power to the trailer connector.
- This wire is called the "12 volt hot lead."
- The second wire (blue) runs to the brake controller to supply power to the trailer brakes.
- This wire is called the "brake wire."
- The third wire (white) gets grounded to the vehicle's frame.
- This wire is called the "ground wire."
- The fourth wire (purple) hardwires to the vehicle's reverse lights.
- This wire is included with 7-way connectors but not 6-way connectors and can be tied off if it is not going to be used.
The ETBC7 and ETBC6 Installation Kits:
All the parts necessary to connect a brake controller to your vehicle are included
The 7-Way Installation Kit Parts
- 7-way trailer connector, which includes a 4-pole adapter
- The mounting bracket secures to the vehicle's bumper or other appropriate mounting location and harbors the trailer connector.
- Mounting hardware, such as self-tapping screws, is included to mount the bracket to the vehicle and the trailer connector to the bracket.
- The gray duplex cable houses two wires that will become the 12 volt hot lead and brake wire.
- The duplex cable runs from the trailer connector to the front of the vehicle.
- The black loom is a hard plastic tube that covers the 12 volt hot lead and brake wire connections at the trailer connector, protecting the connections and giving your installation a professional appearance.
- Circuit breakers act as midway connections for the 12 volt hot lead and the brake controller power supply (introduced later) before they reach the vehicle's battery.
- Butt connectors help to make connections between wires.
- Ring terminals attach to the end of wires and hook around battery posts and circuit breakers.
- Zip ties help to bind loose wires together and prevent them from interfering with vehicle components such as brake and gas pedals.
Brake Controller Installations Steps
Installing and Wiring the 7-Way Trailer Connector
- Find a suitable location to mount the 7-way connector.
- A typical location is on the bottom of the bumper.
- Using the self-tapping screws, secure the mounting bracket into the bumper and the trailer connector into the bracket.
- Plug the 4-pole adapter coming out of the 7-way connector into the vehicle's 4-pole trailer connector.
- Ground the 7-way connector by screwing the white wire into the frame of the vehicle.
- Make a small cut in the rubber sheath of the duplex cable and slightly separate the two wires inside.
- Use a butt connector to connect the black wire in the duplex cable to the 12 volt hot lead (black wire on the 7-way connector).
- Then do the same for the white wire in the duplex cable and the brake wire (blue wire on the 7-way connector).
- Next, route the duplex cable under the vehicle all the way up to the engine compartment under the hood, being careful to avoid hot areas or those that may pinch the cable.
- Before you proceed further, the brake controller needs to be mounted.
- We will return to the duplex cable shortly.
Mounting the Brake Controller
- Choose an appropriate mounting location for the brake controller mounting bracket.
- A typical location is the lower right side of the dash, which allows easy access to the brake controller in the event of an emergency braking situation.
- Using the screws provided, install the mounting bracket into the dash.
- Make sure you avoid drilling through components on the other side of the dash.
- Secure the brake controller into the mounting bracket.
- The four wires on the brake controller will be connected shortly.
Wiring the 7-Way Trailer Connector and Brake Controller
- Return to the duplex cable under the hood, where the brake wire (now white) needs to be separated from the 12 volt hot lead (black).
- The 12 volt hot lead will stay under the hood, where it will be connected to the positive post of the battery via a 40-amp circuit breaker.
- The brake wire will be routed through the firewall into the vehicle, where it will later be connected to the brake controller.
- It is best to run the brake wire through an existing grommet or knockout in the firewall.
- If none is found, a hole can be drilled.
- Make sure both sides of the firewall are clear of obstruction before drilling.
- Using a butt connector, connect the blue wire coming out of the brake controller to the brake wire (white wire of the duplex cable) that was routed through the firewall.
- Find a safe location under the hood or on the firewall to mount two circuit breakers: one 20-amp (or 30-amp; see break controller instructions) and one 40-amp.
- After those are secured, route the 12 volt hot lead to the 40-amp breaker via ring terminals and then to the positive post on the battery.
- The black wire coming out of the brake controller is the brake controller power supply.
- Route this wire to a 20-amp (or 30-amp) breaker under the hood and then to the positive post on the battery.
- There are now two wires connected to the positive post: the 12 volt hot lead and the brake controller power supply.
- NOTE:There will be excess wire after the 12 volt hot lead or brake wire connections have been made.
- If any brake controller wires are too short, use the excess wire from the 12 volt hot lead or brake wire to lengthen them as needed.
- The white wire coming out of the brake controller is the ground wire.
- Route this wire to the negative post on the battery.
- It will be too short to reach the battery, so you will have to use excess wire from the 12 volt hot lead or brake wire to complete this connection.
- Inside the cab, we only have one connection remaining.
- Find the wires connected to the brake switch at the top of the brake pedal.
- Using a circuit tester, find the wire carrying a signal when the brake pedal is engaged.
- Use a scotch lock to connect this wire to the red wire coming out of the brake controller.
- With the brake controller mounted and connected, zip tie any loose, excess wires underneath the dash and under the vehicle.
- DO NOT allow the wires to interfere with the brake and gas pedals, and keep them away from areas of excessive heat.
Brake Controller Installation Guides and Information
Brake Controller Installation Videos
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Brake Controller Installation - 2006 Ford Ranger Part 2
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Testing Wiring on an Electronic Brake Controller Demonstration
Brake Controller Wiring - What are the Wire Colors?Recent Brake Controller Questions and Answers
View All Brake Controller Questions
Question:
I have a 1992 Chevy 3500HD and want to buy a brake controller to pull a 14,000 GVWR trailerwill be pulling a skid loader. Any suggestions?
asked by: Lance last update: November 19, 2008
Reply:
You'll definately want to go with a proportional controller. A proportional controller will apply the trailer brake with the same intensity as the vehicle brakes, allowing the vehicle and the trailer to stop at the same rate. If you will be towing several different trailers, I'd consider one of the models that has multiple boost settings, which allow the ability to apply more initial trailer braking power when towing heavier trailers. Either the Tekonsha Prodigy or the Tekonsha P-3 would be a great choice. The main advantage of the P-3 is its easy to read and understand display, which provides constant feedback on the status of your towing system.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I was wondering where the wiring plug is located under the dash of my 1995 ford f150, It is also equiped with the trailer package
asked by: Troy last update: November 18, 2008
Reply:
The OEM plug is located under the dash near the center console on most vehicles. We offer the wiring adapter for that vehicle, so take a look at the photo of the plug on the end of the adapter, and look for a similar connector under the dash.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I show power to the pin on the connector that goes to the trailer brakes, without the brakes applied. The red wire on the brake controller is wired to the cold side of the brake switch. The drawtite directions are contradictory for how to wire this particular vehicle with ABS. Could you verify that the red wire from the controller needs to be connected to the light green wire on the wiring harness below the steering wheel?
asked by: Doug last update: November 18, 2008
Reply:
How much current are you seeing on that pin? Many controllers send a 'test signal' that's just a few volts to tell the controller whether or not a trailer is hooked up. This test signal is not enough to actuate the brakes. I cannot say which color the cold side brake switch wire is, but you can easily find it by using a circuit tester. You want to probe the wires in that harness until you find the wire that only shows current when the brake pedal is applied.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I installed a journey electronic brake controller 52740 and I always get a full power from the blue brake wire. What can I do?
asked by: Todd last update: November 18, 2008
Reply:
Is the problem you are experiencing occurring each time you hit the brake pedal, or are you getting full power immediately applied to the brakes each time you hook up the trailer without hitting the pedal? If you get full power each time you hit the pedal, is the controller properly adjusted, is the gain set too high? Are the trailer brakes correctly adjusted? If you get full power immediately upon connecting the trailer without using the brake pedal, the controller is probably improperly wired. Make sure the wire that the red brake controller wire taps into only shows current when the brake pedal is pressed. You can check this by using a circuit tester.
reply by: Mike
Question:
We have a reese pilot brake controller on a 1996 chevy truck, using with a horse trailer. Recently the numbers on the controller are continuously changing, whether or not the brakes are in use. The brakes themselves do seem to be working fine when we need them and the lights work as well. Any idea whats going on?
asked by: Peggy last update: November 18, 2008
Reply:
I'm assuming that this is only occurring while the trailer is connected. I've seen this happen when the brake magnets are becoming worn. You might want to examine them, looking for exposed copper coils. If you see much of that showing, the magnets need to be replaced. Also look at the inside of the brake drums where they contact the magnet. If there are deep grooves worn into the inside of the drum, you might want to replace it, as well. To rule out the brake controller as being the problem, use a circuit tester on the blue brake output wire that exits the rear of the controller to make sure you have signal coming out when the brake pedal is pressed and the override switch is activated.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I HAVE A 1995 JEEP GR CHEROKEE, I PURCHASED A HITCH FROM YOU AND HAVE USED IT FOR HAULING, IT WORKED PERFECT, NOW I WANT TO HAUL A HORSE TRAILER, IV WIRED IT UP, I CAN NOT FIND INFO FOR WIRING A BRAKE CONTROLLER FOR THIS VEHICLE, IS ONE EVEN NEEDED AND WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE IF ANYTHING FOR IT.
asked by: James last update: November 18, 2008
Reply:
If the trailer has electric brakes, you'll need a brake controller to actuate them. We have an online help page that will explain how to install your brake controller. As the page illustrates, you'll need an installation kit and a T-1 connector if there is no existing trailer connector.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I have a 1999 ford expedition with a factory tow package. I pull a dual axle utility trailer occationaly and the breaking systems do not appear to work correctly. I am interested in adding one of your breaking controllers to see if it can help. I have gone throught three sets of front brake roters on the expedition in 4 years.
asked by: Jon last update: November 18, 2008
Reply:
Does your trailer currently have brakes? But you have not been using a brake controller? If this is the case, it's no wonder why you have been going through all those rotors. Your vehicle has been doing all the braking. If the trailer has brakes and you want them to work, you'll need a brake controller to actuate them (tell them when and with how much force to operate.) I'd recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy. It is very easy to install and set up, which makes it our best selling brake controller.
reply by: Mike
Question:
I have a 2003 F250 that had a wiring harness in the glove compartment with instructions to connect the connector behind the dash which I did. Someone gave me a Tekonsha Voyager XP brake controller. The trailer brakes would lock up when I tried to use. The power indicator didnt work when the key was in run position but lit in other positions including when starting. I assumed the controller was bad and bought a new one although when I measured power to the unit it read a little over 12vdc when the key was in all positions except run then it was around 11.5vdc. I dont know if that was an actual closed circuit voltage I was measuring or an open ckt voltage that had no real power path. Anyway, the same symptoms exist with the new controller except now the Power LED Green doesnt work at all. The yellow LED seems to be working which indicates power to the brakes and varies in brightness indicating more power is being supplied to the brakes. The green power LED doesnt illuminate. All the trailer fuses in the truck measure continuity so I cant put my finger on the problem. It seems the Truck harness may not be providing power....what do you think?
asked by: Mike last update: November 17, 2008
Reply:
It sounds as if the brake controller might not be wired correctly. If your OEM wiring adapter has a pink wire, it should be wired as follows. The pink wire on the adapter would connect to the black wire on the controller. The red adapter wire would connect with the red wire on the controller, the white wires would connect to each other, as would the blue wires. The brown wire on the adapter is for an illumination circuit, and would not be used. If the wiring adapter has a green wire, wire it as follows. The red adapter wire would connect to the black wire on the controller, the lt. green wire on the adapter would connect to the red controller wire, the white wires would connect to each other, as well as the light blue and the dark blue. Please check to see if your controller is wired as described above, get back with me and let me know what you find, and we'll take it from there.
reply by: Mike
Question:
What is the output voltage on the unit when braking? Does it change on the settings?
asked by: Roger last update: November 13, 2008
Reply:
The maximum output is around 12 volts, and can be adjusted according to the size and weight of your trailer. The idea is to set the controller so it will stop just short of making the trailer brakes lock up, so that they have the maximum braking performance.
reply by: Mike
Question:
My wife and I recently bought a 2008 Toyota FJ cruiser. I recently inquired about a brake controller and 7 blade connector from your website. I was satisfied with the resonse I got, but I did have one more question. The local RV dealer here told us that there is a special conversion kit that is available only from Toyota that they can get for approximately $80-90.00. Are they just trying to pull one on me? From what you described, I sounds like something I could just as easily do myself- I just want to make sure I have everything I need for this vehicle to do it correctly.
asked by: Dave last update: November 13, 2008
Reply:
I'm not aware of a conversion kit that would be necessary for your FJ Cruiser. All you should need is the appropriate brake controller and the install kit. If your vehicle does not already have a 4 way trailer connector, you'll need a T-1 connector. The T-1 connector would tap into your lighting circuits to provide lighting for your trailer.
reply by: Mike
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