Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, Mazda 6 trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.
Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt.
At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.
Average Customer Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars (2 Customer Reviews)
by: Ken A.06/03/2013
Good looking hitch and easy to install. 83069
by: Chris S04/09/2013
Just installed this hitch receiver on my 2014 Mazda 6 without any problems. My first time installing a receiver. Took about 45 minutes taking my time and chatting with a buddy. Hitch build quality is good. Holes lined up on the frame rails perfectly. All parts were included in the package, and instructions were pretty good. I do feel like the receiver is a bit exposed and could probably be tucked in a bit tighter into the vehicle (but we're talking 1/2" here at most). That said, the receiver is NOT the lowest point on the underside of the car so I don't expect any significant impact on MPG from wind drag, if any at all. Tip for DIY installers: You use fishwire to get 4 spacers/bolts into the frame and aligned in their respective holes. On each frame rail (left and right), there are 4 holes, all of which are shown in the instructions. 2 middle holes are clearly for the bolts, and I assumed the other 2 were the access holes for fishwiring the spacers/bolts into place (i.e. one nearest each bolt hole). This is NOT the case. You only use 3 holes total: 2 middle for the bolts, and only the rear-most (towards rear of vehicle) hole is used as the access hole for BOTH bolts. The front-most hole is not used at all in the process. The spacer will fit through the front hole but not the bolt. This cost me about 10 minutes on the install because it's virtually impossible to remove the spacer once in place. I got everything sorted out in the end but just wanted to mention that as it's not explicitly clear from the instructions (well, it wasn't to me). If I can figure out how to upload some photos I'll do so later.75214
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