Videos are provided As a guide only. Refer To manufacturer
installation instructions And specs For complete information.
Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.
Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.
Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.
In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.
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1998 - 2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
1998 - 2007 Lexus LX 470
Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
Videos are provided As a guide only. Refer To manufacturer
installation instructions And specs For complete information.
Today on our 1999 Lexus LX470, we'll be installing the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III with 2" receiver, part number 75095. This is what the hitch looks like when it's installed on our vehicle. It has a nice black powder-coat finish. It does hang down just a little bit underneath the bumper but no too bad. It allows you access to your 2" by 2" receiver tube and your tie down points and your 5/8" pin hole and your J-style locking pin. It does reuse existing hardware and frame weld nuts to install the hitch. There's no modifications needed to your vehicle to install the hitch, and it does allow you to reuse your tie down locations and your tow hooks. Now, I'll go ahead and give you some measurements to help in choosing some accessories for your new hitch.
From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the bumper is about 3/4". From the top of the receiver tube to the ground is 17". That will help you choose an accessory such as ball mounts, bike racks, or cargo carriers. Now, we'll go ahead and show you how to install the hitch. To start our install, we're going to need to take the tow hook and the tie down bracket here on the driver side down from the vehicle. We'll go ahead and take a 19mm socket and remove these 2 bolts.
Those will both come down, which you'll want to save the hardware and the brackets as they will go back into place when we install the hitch. You'll want to go ahead and grab these when you undo this back bolt. Now, move here to the passenger side, and we need to remove this tie down bracket also. Next, we'll go ahead and lower the exhaust. There's 2 rubber isolators here on the muffler, one here in the rear of the vehicle, and if you follow down the frame a little bit, there's one here on the backside. We'll go ahead and take some spray lubricant, spray down those hangers, and push, pull, or pry those down out of the way.
I'll lower the exhaust a little bit to give us some working room to put our hitch into position. We'll go ahead and take that one down and pull it out of the way. We will re-install that after we get our hitch into position. Then, we'll move to the back bracket and remove that one. Next, we're going to remove the bumper fascia bracket here at the rear of the vehicle. It's this metal piece that goes all the way across.
There's 2 fasteners right here, a hex-head bolt, and a Phillips-head screw, 2 more hex-head bolts here, there, and the same hex-head bolt and Phillips screw here at the end. We'll go ahead and take that down, and the hitch will go into that position here underneath the fascia. You will want to go ahead and hold onto this hardware, because when we remove this bracket, we'll re-install it to hold the plastic here up against the frame on the inside. Now that we have the 6 hex-head bolts out of the way, we'll go ahead and grab a Phillips screwdriver and remove those final 2 fasteners. They are just Phillips head push fasteners. You can put a little light pressure on them to get those undone. You can go ahead and grab a flat-blade screwdriver to get underneath the edge of those to pop them loose. We'll go ahead and take that fasteners out of the way. Go ahead and remove this final fasteners, and we can remove that bracket from behind the fascia. We'll go ahead and take this bracket down and sit it out of the way as we wont' be re-installing it. Now, we'll go ahead and point out the mounting locations for our hitch. We will be reusing the 2 weld nuts here on the frame that held the tie down point, and this hole right here, we will be putting a block and carriage bolt in there once we have the hitch up into place. Here on the driver side, we will be using the 2 locations that we took our bolts from that had the tow hook and tie down bracket onto. If you go down the frame, we'll be using this existing weld nut here in the frame. After some time, that can fill up with rust, dust, dirt, and debris. Go ahead and spray that weld nut down with some spray lubricant, and clean it out with 1/2" tube brush, which can find on etrailer's website. That's part number A14092. The older the vehicle is the more debris that will be in the threads. You want to go ahead and clean that out. Now that we have that cleaned out, we'll go ahead and take our 1/2" bolt, thread that in there to make sure it threads in nicely. Depending on your application, it comes with 2 sets of hardware for this hole. For this one, we will be using the 1/2" bolt, split lock washer, and flat washer for this location, and it also comes with a M12 bolt, a conical tooth washer depending on the size hole that's in your frame. You want to go ahead and check that to see which one fits. You can see this one is too small for that location, and the 1/2" threads in nicely after we cleaned that out. We'll go ahead and get an extra set of hands to help us hold the hitch up into position as we install the front most hardware, which is the 1/2" bolt, split lock washer, and flat washer. You want to get that in there hand tight, and that'll go ahead and hold the hitch into position here on the driver side. Then, we'll go ahead and get out tie down bracket, tow hook, and those 2 bolts we removed earlier and put those into position. A quick note, the tie down brackets that you removed need to switch sides. The driver side will go to the passenger and vice versa. We'll take our bracket now . This is the passenger side bracket that we'll be installing here on the driver side and our tow hook. We'll feed out bolts through both of those, through the hitch, and into out mounting locations. We'll go ahead and get both of those started. The driver side bolts are longer than the passenger side ones. You'll want to use the longer ones here on the driver side so they can through the tow hook, tie down bracket, and the hitch into the frame. Now that we have both of those started, we'll go ahead and go to the passenger side. Take our bracket, the shorter of the factory bolts and get those started. Those will thread back in to the weld nuts that we removed them from. Once you have those started, we have 1 more remaining fastener here on the passenger side, and that is the carriage bolt block that will go into this hole. We'll go and take the pull wire that comes with our install kit, feed that up into this hole. It will go through the bracket, and if you go through the backside here, there's a large access point where you can go ahead and grab the fish wire, pull it through until you see right here. We'll go ahead and put on our square-hole spacer block and our carriage bolt that comes with the install kit, thread that onto our pull wire, feed that up through our access point, and into position. We'll go ahead and remove the pull wire. Let's go ahead and take our conical tooth washer, slide that onto the bolt and give it some side pressure, it holds the bolt into position and makes it easier to install the hex nut. Go ahead and get that started. Now that we have all of our hardware secure, we'll go ahead and snug everything down, and then, we'll torque it as specified in the instructions. All right, now that we have everything tightened and torqued, we can go ahead and re-install the exhaust, and then, we'll go ahead and re-install these fasteners that we took out of the front fascia to keep it from flapping around in the wind. For these, you only have to install the end ones and the ones that have these plastic tabs on them, because the bolts next to those that we took out we're holding the bracket up that we took down. You just need to go ahead and secure the plastic here to the bracket underneath. All right now that we have our fasteners secure here in the fascia, we'll go ahead and raise our exhaust back into position. Now that we have our exhaust back into place, we're ready to hit the road. That will do it for the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III , part number 75095, on our 1999 Lexus LX470. .
Average Customer Rating: 4.4 out of 5 stars (7 Customer Reviews)Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.
by: Dave P.03/02/2015
The 87409 hitch was installed on a 2004 Lexus LX 470. The hitch fit perfectly, however, a couple of suggestions: first, lower the spare tire out of the way, giving room to work. Second, it was not necessary to disconnect the rubber mount/muffler bracket, the hitch fit over the top without problem. The biggest issue it the lack of instructions, or even acknowledgement that the trailer light outlet bracket must be modified and relocated. Before the hitch is lifted in place, the bracket must be removed, then the outlet separated from the bracket and placed on the top side of the hitch as the hitch is lifted into place. If that's not done, there's not room to feed the socket over the hitch later. The existing bracket can be cut or bent to fit and one or two holes drilled to refasten the bracket into the OEM holes, however I had to add a spacer of 3/4" to 1" between the vehicle and the bracket to lower the bracket, otherwise the door to the outlet won't open. 176660
Normally, vendors want reviews ASAP. Why? Because surveys show customers are typically happy with FAST DELIVERY, and end up rating rapid service more than great qualities of the product. SO, this company took the time to ask me ONE YEAR LATER how I felt. This takes courage, and I like that. My product has functioned as perfectly as a consumer would want. Installation was a snap, the installationinstructions couldn't have been better, and over time, this puppy has withstood serious abuse. There isn't a reason I can think of to not buy this product from this company. Enjoy! 315428
by: Tom S.06/17/2016
I installed this on a 2003 Lexus LX470. The hitch and hardware installed great. I did however run into an unexpected problem. My LX has a factory 7 pin plug mounted in a location that no longer works with the hitch in place. I now need to fabricate a new bracket and possibly redo the wiring if it is not long enough for the new location. For now zip ties will have to do 262162
Fast shipping, good price and great installation video for my vehicle (LX470) Both hitch and wiring kit fit perfect. 300868
by: David f10/22/2016
Great product and delivery follow up... installation was very easy and the accessible videos make it so simple... 309692
by: David M05/02/2011
Great service, great communication, great product and easy to follow instructions. Thank you! 12678
by: Roger keshavarz09/24/2016
Fit right, easy to install with information packet and video 299563
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