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Blue Ox Base Plates for the Chevrolet Malibu, 2011

Blue Ox Base Plates

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Code:   BX1679



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Shipping Weight: 46 pounds


Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - Chevrolet Malibu, 2011

This strong and durable base plate kit is custom designed to fit your Chevrolet Malibu. The hidden reinforcements, along with the removable bracket arms, provide a clean, unobtrusive look when your car is not being towed.


  • Custom-fit base plates provide attachment points for tow bar
  • Hidden reinforcement means that less of the bracket shows
    • No crossbar support beam or large, protruding brackets
  • Base plate tabs remove easily for a completely inconspicuous look
  • Sturdy, dependable design
    • Spreads towing force evenly to minimize weight placed on suspension
    • Constructed of durable steel
  • Simple installation - no welding required
    • Bolts securely to your Chevrolet Malibu chassis
  • Integrated mounting points let you easily attach an electrical connector plug or bracket (sold separately)
  • Instructions and necessary hardware included
  • Adaptable for use with Roadmaster tow bars with the Roadmaster Tow Bar Adapter (RM-031 or RM-031-5; sold separately)
  • Made in USA


  • Distance between brackets: 22-1/2"
    • Fits Blue Ox Aventa, Aladdin, Alpha and Allure tow bars
  • 3-Year warranty

BX1679 Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Tabs

Video of Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video install blue ox base plate kit 2010 chevrolet malibu bx1679
Blue Ox Base Plate Kit Installation - 2010 Chevrolet Malibu

Video Transcript for Blue Ox Base Plate Kit Installation - 2010 Chevrolet Malibu

Today on our 2010 Chevrolet Malibu, we'll be installing the Blue Ox base plate kit with removable arms, part number BX1679. We're going to begin by raising the hood on the vehicle. From the driver's side, we'll need to remove six bolts, as well as two push fasteners. Over here on the passenger side, we'll need to remove five bolts and two push fasteners. We'll be using a 10mm socket, as well as a trim panel removal tool or a large flat head screwdriver. We'll go ahead and the bolts and push fasteners aside as they will be reinstalled later. Now, we can go ahead and lift this section of plastic out of the way. Next, we're going to go here at each of the wheel wells.

They'll be a total of four push fasteners in each of the wheel wells; three of them are down lower and one of them is up a little bit higher in the wheel well, as shown here. Again, we'll go ahead and use either a trim panel removal tool or a large flat head screwdriver to remove the push fasteners. There is an additional bolt that requires a 10mm socket just up underneath the fender edge that connects the front fascia to the fender. It's in the same location on both sides. We'll need to remove this in order to pull our front fascia clip off. Next, we're going to need to go up under the vehicle. Underneath here, there's a total of nine 7mm bolts, or nine bolts that will require a 7mm socket, as well as two additional push fasteners that will need to be removed. Now that we all this hardware removed, you'll notice on this particular vehicle, there is lower fog lights.

As we're pulling the front fascia off, we will need to unplug the fog lights. With that done, we'll get an extra set of hands to help us remove the front fascia. We'll start here on each of the fender wells and gently pull outward, working the fascia from around the headlights. You'll notice just about the headlight where the fender and the fascia meet, it is a little difficult to remove it here, but if you simply pull upward and outward, the clips will release. Now that we have the front fascia released, we'll ahead and set it aside for now. Since the light bulbs are still connected to the wiring for our fog lights, we're going to go ahead and remove each of the light bulbs and put them back into the front fascia.

To do this, you simply open up the tabs, the two black tabs on each side, and pull outward on the light bulb making sure you don't touch the actual bulb with your fingers, only the plastic portion. Now, we to need to go ahead here on the passenger side and remove the air baffle 00:02:20. To do this, we'll need to remove this push pin right here, as well as a bolt that requires a 10mm socket here at the back of it. To get to this bolt, a long extension on your ratchet works great. Once you have the push pin and the bolt removed, you can remove the whole section of air baffle 00:02:33. We'll set this aside for now, so we will be putting it back on later. Now, we need to move here underneath the bumper. Next, we're going to go ahead and remove these two push pins that secures these two pieces of plastic together.

We'll then need to go ahead and take a utility knife and trim the one piece of plastic that's closest to the radiator. We'll go ahead and put a paint line here to show you what area we'll be trimming. We'll need to do the same cut on both sides. Next, because this is a 2010 model, we need to mark the air dam on the passenger side straight across underneath the bumper and then we'll go straight down as well. Again, we'll go ahead and mark out the area that we're going to trim out with out paint marker. Now that we've got the passenger side trimmed, we're going to move over here to the driver's side. This side will get a little bit more cut out. Again, we'll go ahead here and mark our line with our paint marker and then we'll use our utility knife to trim out the area that will be removed. Next, we'll need to go ahead and remove the bolt hat holds the horn bracket in place. Again, this is a 10mm socket that we'll be using to remove this bolt. Now, we're going to go ahead and raise our base plate up into position and use some clamps to secure it, as we'll need to drill three holes on each side. We did find here on the driver's side that we needed to remove a couple additional push fasteners to allow us to get our base plate in just a a little bit easier. By removing the fasteners on the lower underside of the plastic, here, it gave us a little more room and allowed us to move it around just enough to get our base plate into position. It also gave us access to the hole underneath the frame that we'll be feeding our handle nut through later. On the driver's side, you need to line up the top back hole, which is the horn bracket hole and on the passenger side, you'll need to line up the top front hole, which is the air baffle 00:04:17 push pin hole. Once everything is lined up and we have some clamps holding the base plate into position, we're going to go ahead and use a 13/32 drill bit and drill three holes on each side. On the driver's side, it'll be the two bottom holes and the top foreword most hole. On the passenger side, it'll be the two bottom holes and the top rear hole that we'll be drilling. Now that we have all the holes drilled, we're ready to install some of our hardware. On all the hardware, you need to be sure that you use red lock tight on this application. For the bottom two locations on each side, we'll be using a 3/8 hex bolt, a 3/8 lock washer, and a 3/8 hex nut. We'll go ahead and put our bolt in though the bottom hole going from the outside towards the inside, followed by putting our lock washer and hex nut on. For the top location on each side, we'll be using the handle nut. You will need to bend the handle on each of the handle nuts to allow you to go through the access hole in the bottom of the frame and line it up with the top hole that we just drilled .Once you have your handle nut lined up into position, go ahead and put some red lock tight this time on an inch and a half 3/8 hex bolt. On this location, we'll put our 3/8 lock washer onto the bolt and then thread it into the handle nut. We'll do this for both the driver and the passenger side. Now that we have all the hardware in, making sure that we have red lock tight on each location, we'll go ahead and torque them down to the manufacturer's specification. Now that all the hardware's been torqued down, we'll go ahead and reinstall our horn bracket and bolt, holding the horn in place. Now that our horn's been reinstalled, we'll need to take each of the safety cables, go around e frame, and come back up with each of the loops to the lop welded to the boom of the baseplate. We'll then use the quick link connector to connect each end of our cable to the loop on the bottom of the baseplate. Now that we have each of our cables in place with the quick link, we'll go ahead and tighten them down. Now that we have our safety cables installed and tightened down, next we're going to need to go ahead and put any of the plastic pieces back up that we may have had to remove earlier to gain access to out access hole underneath the frame, as well as any underbody panels to move enough to put our base plate on. In our case, we had to remove about four additional push fasteners to allow us to move things around enough to gain access. We'll go ahead and put those back in now. We'll also go ahead and put the two push fasteners that we removed from the bottom of the bumper structure. Now that we have that done, we're going to go ahead and hold up our front fascia so we can kind of get an idea of where we need to trim out to allow our base plates to go through the grill. We'll go ahead and take our paint marker here and mark out an area and then we'll go ahead and trim it out. In this case, we'll be using a rotary tool to do our trimming. Once we have it trimmed out, we'll go ahead and do a quick test fit again to see if we need to take out any more. In our case, we need to trim out a little extra as it seemed to be bottoming out. The front fascia was hitting the base plate and not allowing it to go all the way on. Now that we've made the additional cuts to our front fascia, we're ready to go ahead and put our front fascia on. Since we unplugged our fog lights, as we're putting our front fascia on, we'll need to make sure that we plug our fog lights back in. You also want to make sure the fog lights work correctly before continuing to put the fascia on and putting all the hardware back in. As you can see here, our fog lights come on just fine. Now, we'll go ahead and put our fascia completely in place, making sure all the locking tabs on the top side slip in properly on top of the light, as well as on the side of the light. Once we have this done, now we'll go up underneath and put the hardware that we removed earlier; the screws, as well as the push fasteners back in place. We'll then go into each of the wheel wells and put the push fasteners, as well as the bolt that holds the front fascia, to the fender. We'll do this for both sides. Next, we're ready to go ahead and go up top. We'll put the section of plastic that we removed earlier, as well as all the bolts and the push fasteners back in place. Now that we have all the hardware back in, let's over how our removable arms will install in the base plate, as well as how they come out. We'll go ahead and take our removable arm, line it up with the hole in the baseplate, and turn it so that it locks in with the locking tab. To release the removable arm, you simply pull out on the ring, which will unlock the locking tab. Then, twist the arm and it'll slide out of the base plate. When you don't have your removable arms in, the kit does come with these small black covers that can be pushed into the base plate to keep any dirt and debris out. With that, that'll conclude our installation of the Blue Ox base plate kit with removable arms, part number BX1679, on our 2010 Chevrolet Malibu. .

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Customer Reviews

Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - BX1679

Average Customer Rating:  ratingratingratingratingrating5.0 out of 5 stars   (2 Customer Reviews)

- BX1679

ratingratingratingratingrating by: jerry n06/19/2012

Is this review helpful?

fast del. good quality prod. great tran saction44762

- BX1679

ratingratingratingratingrating by: jerry n.06/18/2012

Is this review helpful?

looks quality made, quick delievery ,very satisfied, have appt. for install.44712

Ask the Experts about this Blue Ox Base Plates
Expert Answers about Blue Ox Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms - BX1679                                            Do you have a question about this Base Plates?

  • Other Vehicle Fits for the Blue Ox Base Plate on a 2004 Chevrolet Malibu
  • The Blue Ox Base Plate, # BX1679, that you referenced will fit on your new 2012 Chevrolet Malibu. It will not fit on a 2004 Chevrolet Malibu. You probably have either the Blue Ox Base Plate, # BX1648 for classic models or # BX1655 for regular or Maxx models. These are the only two Blue Ox Base plates we carry for the 2004 Malibu. The BX1648 base plate fits a number of vehicles. I have added a link to the product page where you can find all of the vehicle fits for this base plate. You can
    view full answer...

  • Purpose of Two Small Tubes on Blue Ox Base Plate # BX1679 for 2012 Chevy Malibu
  • The two small tubes you mention are threaded on the inside, and provide an attachment point for the connector for the umbilical that connects the RV to the towed vehicle (such the one included with part # BX88206). If you look at the photo I provided, you can see the connector. I have also linked you to some FAQ articles about flat towing you might find helpful.
    view full answer...

Chevrolet Malibu Accessories

Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B

Written by:
Lindsey S

Expert Research:
John H

Updated by:
Adele M

Test Fit:
Shane T

Video by:
Alan C

Video Edited:
Sue W

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