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Vehicle Tow Bar Wiring > 2013 > Honda > CR-V

Blue Ox Tow Bar Wiring for the 2013 Honda CR-V

Blue Ox Tow Bar Wiring

(1 reviews)


Code:   BX88267

Retail:$110.00

Price:$84.95


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Shipping Weight: 1.75 pounds

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Blue Ox Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red - 2013 Honda CR-V

Get the signal lights needed for towing without tapping into your towed car's electrical system. Long-lasting LED bulbs mount inside your Honda CR-V's tail light housings, and wiring runs beneath your car for a seamless appearance.


Features:

  • Tail light kit gives you brake, running and turn signal lights for your towed Honda CR-V without tapping into its wiring
  • Bypasses towed car's electrical system completely - wiring is routed beneath the car
  • Independent bulbs and sockets mount inside your tail lights
    • LED bulbs are smaller than traditional incandescent bulbs for better fit and simpler installation
      • Requires only a 9/16" hole drilled in tail light housing
  • Red LEDs last longer, burn brighter and activate faster than incandescent lights
  • Necessary wiring, 2 bulbs, 2 sockets, zip-ties and instructions included
    • Plug and extension loop for hookup to RV sold separately
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Wiring harness length: 26'
  • Light output per bulb: 144 Lumens
  • 1-Year warranty


Note: Each tail light housing on towed car must have enough room for extra bulb and socket.




BX88267 Blue Ox Red LED Taillight Wiring Kit

Replaces BX88269





Video of Blue Ox Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.



Video Transcript for Blue Ox Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles Installation - 2004 Mini Cooper

Today on this 2004 Mini Cooper, we're going to install part number BX88267 from Blue Ox. This is their tail light wiring kit for towed vehicles with LED bulbs. First thing were going to do is take a floor wire and we'll route it down towards the front of the vehicle and to the center. We'll run it down below the driver's side head light below the bumper cover and out to the center. Go ahead and open up the panel below the vehicle so we can get better access to the wires that we pushed through. Pull it down across and then route it out to our opening into the grill.

We'll go ahead and pull our wire through and then we'll go ahead and start installing our 4-pole connector. Now, this connector does not come with the kit. This is from part number RN-164-7, RoadMaster's 7 to 4-wire Flexo-Coil Kit. Before we install the connector itself, we'll go ahead and install the hardware to help hold the connector in place. These parts came with a base plate already installed on the vehicle.

These bolts are self-threaded cutting so we'll run them out a few times where we'll do our final assemble. We'll install the screws and then the small brackets, one on each side, and we'll leave them snug but still we can able to move them around. Then we'll go ahead and attach our 4-pole connector. First, we'll disassemble the 4-pole connector and then we'll run our wire through it. On our 4-wire end, we'll separate the wires and strip back the ends, and connect them to our 4-pole connector and then we'll connect our wires to the back side of the connector.

We'll be using this sequence looking at the front of the connector with the set screw on the top. On the left hand side will be number one. Our number one pin will be our left turn and stop. Now, it will be our yellow wire. We'll loosen up the set screws and then install the wires.

Down below on the left hand side will be number two and that will be the ground. That will be our white wire. Back on top, the number three, that will be our right turn and stop and that it will be our green wire. Number four will be our tail light and that will be our brown wire, and then we'll reassemble the connector. It also may be a good idea to wrap some electrical tape around the wire behind the connector and then we'll go attach the connector to the brackets. Now, continue routing the 4-pole wire towards the back of the vehicle. We're going to route it around the engine over towards the top and then through the firewall. We'll use some zip ties to keep the wires together and out of the way. There is a small panel in front of the brake fluid reservoir then we have to run our wire through. We'll pull up on the seal and a small section with a rubber seal on it. We'll go ahead and push that out of the way and then push our wire on top of that, and then we'll reinstall the seal. Now running it to the firewall, there's a large round grommet right behind it. First off, we'll go ahead and show you with the screwdriver and then we'll poke a hole through it. Now, this is easier done from the inside. Now to pull our wires through first, we're going to run a piece of airline tubing to the grommet. This could also be in a stiff piece of wire to help pull our 4-pole wire back through. With the red tubing through the grommet, we'll take some electrical tape and connect the 4-pole wires to the red tubing. We'll go ahead and pull it through the grommet and we'll take up all the slack and then we'll go ahead and route it over to the left side above the components to make sure we stay away from the steering components underneath the dash. Then basically, we can go ahead and start taking the wire and routing it towards the back. We're going to tuck it underneath the plastic panels. Up towards the front, we'll remove the fuse panel cover so we could get access to the wire and pull it through behind it then we'll going to run it at the back side so we can hide it behind the rubber seal along the edge. We'll run it pass on the length of the door and going towards the back. We'll keep it underneath the plastic until we get to the back seat and then we'll go ahead and tuck it between the plastic and the back seat as far as we can, then push it underneath the hinge for the back seat and then we'll work it behind the plastic there. Now, our wire is back by the tail lights. We'll go ahead and remove the tail lights. There's one that we have to remove and then there are two clips on the inside. You have to feel for the clips on the inside. You really can't see them from the outside. This may help to remove the light bulbs as well to get easier access to the tabs. I'm going to release the tabs. We'll go ahead and push the light out. With the light out, we can show you the tabs that we're talking about now. All right, now we have to install our LED lights. We have to drill a 9/16 hole on the back side of the light. Now, we're going to try to keep it about an inch away where the location of the original tail light bulb is. When we drill it out, we'll use a pilot hole first, a 1/4-inch bit, and then follow it up with a 9/16. Now, use light pressure so you dont go from the inside and crack the housing on the outside. Now, we'll go ahead and install the socket. Push it into place until it clicks in. It may help to twist it a little bit as you install it. You should hear a small click once fully installed and then we'll go ahead and run some sealant around to help hold it in place as well and protect it. Now, we can go ahead and reinstall the light. We'll push it back into place and make sure we dont disturb the new wire we just installed. We're done with our light for the driver's side. We'll go ahead and start connecting our wires. First off, we'll start with a white ground wire. We'll take our 4-pole wire. We'll peel back the ground and we'll cut it in half and then install a ring terminal. We'll add that to the factory ground that's located behind the plastic panel. The rest of the white wire going towards the back, we'll go to our white wire off our socket. We'll connect those two together using a butt connector. Now, we have a brown and a black wire leftover. Our brown wire from the 4-pole wire will connect to the brown wire as well. We'll pull away our brown wire. We'll cut it in half. We'll twist those two together and install to the end of the butt connector and on the other end of that butt connector will connect to our brown wire from our new socket. Now, we need to do this because our brown wire will continue on over to the other side. Now, the black wire is going to be our turn signal circuit. Since it sits on our driver's side, we'll connect that to the yellow wire and we'll use the butt connector and we can direct connection. Now, we'll snip off the rest of our yellow wire since we won't need it on the other side. We'll take the remaining wires and run them over to the passenger's side. To do this, we'll remove the threshold and run the wires underneath it. To remove the threshold, we'll take out these three pushpin fasteners and pry the threshold up. We'll go ahead and remove the tail light and install the socket on that side as well, repeating the same thing we did on the driver's side. Once it's reinstalled, we'll go ahead and connect our wires. At the passenger's side, we'll take the excess white wire. Strip back the ends and add a butt connector to one end. We'll then connect it to the white wire on the LED light. On the other end of the excess wire, we'll strip back and add a ring terminal which will be connected to the factory ground point. Our ground will go to the brown wire and our green wire will go to the black wire. We'll now reassemble the interior. With all our connections made, we'll go ahead and try it out. Now, our brown wire will be our running light circuit so we'll check that, and then our yellow wire will be our left turn signal. We'll go ahead and check that. Green wire will be our right turn signal and we'll check that. With that, that will finish it for our install of part number BX88267 from Blue Ox, on our 2004 Mini Cooper.




Customer Reviews

Blue Ox Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles - LED Bulb and Socket - Red - BX88267

Average Customer Rating:  1.0 out of 5 stars   (1 Customer Reviews)

Get the signal lights needed for towing without tapping into your towed car's electrical system. Long-lasting LED bulbs mount inside your vehicle's tail light housings, and wiring runs beneath your car for a seamless appearance.


- BX88267

by: Eric12/31/2012


These are terrible. They were properly installed, instructions never stated that the bulbs themselves are polarity sensitive; one was shipped in its socket backwards. Had to completely pull apart post installation to discover this problem. After working out that issue, I then find that cannot see them in the day light at all. Not direct sun light, that's obviously a no-go and even worse, I mean just plain ole day light, they absolutely cannot be seen. They barely provide a fleck of light within the tail lamp housing when lit full-bright in brake or turn-signal mode. I was also not happy to discover that they were not set-up as separate turn/brake lamp and parking light wires. Instead, they use some voltage cutting resistor in-line on a single input wire, which was a cheap shortcut to provide something such as a proper hi-lo dual brightness LED module. The socket used is for your typical bi-pin type 194 marker/courtesy light. Stay away from these until they come out with something either 3 times the size of the leds, brightness and wiring of a real 3157 tail lamp LED module, or increase the included bulb to a 3 row module. These mini LEDs are for courtesy/map/marker lamp use, not for lighting a full tail lamp housing. They are inadequate as-is. You can buy these exact LED 194 replacements by the dozen (yes, 12 LED modules) for under $10. The lumen output of one of these at full brightness is only 40 lumen. That's worse than a nightlight bulb (310 lumens), or for direct comparison to your typical 3157 tail lamp bulb such as in my vehicle, a 3157 bulb outputs >400 lumens on the bright filament, and ~200 lumen on the lower for parking lamp. How they figured 40 lumen would be nearly enough is beyond me, and just plain poor product design and research. Now that I've had to pull them out, I'm left with two destroyed tail lamp housings (having been drilled out) off my brand new vehicle I bought last month with <500 miles on it. 62263




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Info for this part was:


Test Fit:
Joe V

Edited by:
Leah B

Photos by:
Theodore B

Expert Research:
Michael L

Video Edited:
Zack K

Video by:
Andrew K

Written by:
Lindsey S

Updated by:
DeAnne T

Expert Research:
Michael H

Expert Research:
John H

Updated by:
Adele M

Expert Research:
Adam R

Updated by:
Sarah W

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