Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Diode Kit allows you to use your Ford Fusion's tail lights and wiring system while preventing feedback from your RV. 4-Pole flat loop included to connect RV to towed car.
Note: For applications that have separate lighting, this kit will cause your brake lights to function as both brake and turn lights. A wiring converter (118158 - sold separately) and 2 additional diodes will be needed if you want to retain separate turn and brake signals.
Video of Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2011 Ford Fiesta we will be installing the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit, part number RM-154. As well as the Roadmaster 4-Wire Connector Vehicle End, part number RM-910030-1. In the final part we will be using the Bent Electrical Bracket, part number RM-910030-5. To begin with we will go ahead and open up the hood of the vehicle. Next, we need to kind of plan out our routing for the wire that we will run from the front of the vehicle all the way to the back of the vehicle because we will be making wiring connections with our rear tail lights. Now we will go ahead and begin by routing our wire down to the center of the vehicle on the lower fascia.
Be sure when routing your wiring down to the center of the lower fascia that you leave a little extra for potential future connections or if you want to change this style plug, which we will be doing later in the video. Once we have our wire routed down to the front as well as through the engine department, we use a few zip ties to help secure and keep it in place. Because we are also not going to need the other end of the 4-flat at the rear of the vehicle, we went ahead and cut it off to make pulling the wire a little bit easier. You will also notice we use an old section of red airline tubing to help fish the wire through. Now that we've got the wire pulled down underneath the vehicle, we will go ahead and route it along where some existing lines run to the back; making sure that we zip tie it along the way, keeping it away from any moving parts, sharp objects, or any areas that may become hot and damage the wire.
Now that we've got the wire run to the back of the vehicle we need to find a location that we can route it into the rear of the trunk. To do this, you will need to remove the center threshold, there is some clips that hold the top center down as well as three push pins on the inside that hold it in place. Use a flathead screwdriver or a body fastener removal tool. Once you have this out of the way, each of the side carpeting has two pushpins that will also need to be removed so you can peel the carpeting back to gain access to the wire as well as the rubber boot. As you will see here we found a rubber grommet that we will be able to put a small slit in and pull the 4-flat through.
To accomplish pulling the 4-flat wire through it, we are going to go ahead and use the air tube again and push it down through the grommet and tape it off to the 4-flat. Now that we've got the wire pulled to the back of the vehicle, we are going to go ahead and use a small section of the wire loom that is supplied with the kit. As you will notice, we also used some electrical tape to help secure the wire loom around the wire. Now we are going to need to go ahead on the fascia00:03:02 wiring harness and remove some of the protective coating. You may need to use a test light and probe the wires while someone runs light functions to figure out which wire does which.
On the driver side here, the green and blue wire is the turn and break signal, and the purple and green are the running lights. Now we will go ahead and move over to the passenger side and repeat the process. On this side the blue and orange wire is the break and turn, and the orange and white wire is the running lights. These are the wires that we'll be making our connections with the diodes. Before we make any cuts to the wire, we are going to go ahead and kind of plan out how we are going to route it. If at all possible, since we came up on the driver side, we are going to try and keep the green wire intact as it will be run over to the passenger side. Next we will measure out and cut off the excess brown and yellow wires from our 4-pull and use this extra wiring to make a pair of jumbo wires. These will go from the factory plug to the diodes in-and-out plugs. We will then split the yellow and brown wires, pulling them apart at the ends and stripping them back. We will add two bud connectors to the ends of the jumpers. Now we will cut our wires that we will be using on the vehicle's harness and strip back both of these as well. We will connect our first jumper, the brown wire, to the running light on the vehicle going towards a plug. We will repeat this for the yellow wire to the break and turn wire on the vehicle. Once those are crimped down, we will wrap them up with some electrical tape. Now we are ready to adhere our diodes into place. We will find a good spot for them, peel back the adhesive on the back, and stick them into place. With that done, we will measure out from the jumper we made for the plug and the diodes, again cutting off the excess and stripping back the ends. On these ends, we will add spade terminals for the diodes. These will be plugged into the out portion of the diode, which goes towards the tail light. We will wrap these up with a little electrical tape. With this done, we will now plug these into the out portion of the diode. From the excess yellow and brown wire we cut earlier, we will make a second set of jumper wires. This time coming from the other side of the vehicle plug, which will be connected to the inside of a diode. We will have yellow bud connectors and spade plugs on the other. We will first connect them to the vehicles harness, then plug them into the diode. With our vehicle's driver side harness taken care of, we will now move on to the 4-pull wire we routed from the front. We'll take the brown and yellow wires from that, strip them back, and add the appropriate spade terminals. Once a spade terminal is on the yellow wire, we will go ahead and plug it in to the in portion of the diode. The brown and running light wire from the harness is a bit different. We'll take the rest of our excess of our brown and yellow wires, completely splitting them apart. We will discard the yellow wire and take the extra brown wire and strip back the end. We will then splice this with the brown wire from the 4-pull, placing the special yellow spade terminal that came with the diode kit. The extra brown wire will be run to the passenger side with the green wire. Our final step on the driver side will be to attach the ground wire to the frame. We will cut off the excess white wire and add a ring terminal. We'll then use a self-tapping screw to attach it to the frame. With all that done, we will move over to the passenger's side and repeat these steps with the green and brown wires. We'll start by replacing the diodes in the proper locations; add spade terminals to the green and brown wires. We'll then cut our vehicle wires and place the appropriate jumpers on them. In this case, the green wire will be to the turn and break signal and the brown wire will again be for the running lights on the passenger side. With our diodes connected and tail lights plugged back in, we can now test our functions to make sure everything is working before we put our trunk area back together. Everything looks good; we can now reassemble the trunk area. If you remember earlier, we went ahead and just left a little extra of the 4-flat u on the vehicle. This particular vehicle does not need the 4-flat wiring; instead, they need a round 4 pin. That's why we are going to install the part number RM-910030-1. To do this we will need to go ahead and cut the 4-flat off on the front and find a suitable location to mount our mounting bracket. As you will see here, we were able to use a couple of self-tapping screws into the bottom of the license plate bracket. With the bracket installed, now we are ready to do our wiring. You want to go ahead and remove the center part of the plug by removing the small Philips head screw and pushing the interior out. On this particular vehicle, we are going to wire the plug where if you are looking straight at it so you see the pins and the nut that we removed the screw from earlier is on top, well be wiring the yellow to the top left, the green to the top right, the white or the ground to the lower left, and the running light or the brown to the lower right. After you've stripped back your 4-flat wiring a little bit, go ahead and make the connections. You want to make sure that you fished the wire through the housing as well as the bracket before you make any of these connections. Once you have all your connections made, go ahead and slide the plug back into the housing. Now we are ready to go ahead and make our connection to the bracket. Now that we've got our plug and our bracket mounted together we will go ahead and use a couple zip ties to help secure up any excess wire that's still located behind the fascia. With that, that will complete the installation of the Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit; part number RM-154 on our 2011 Ford Fiesta. .
Average Customer Rating: 4.5 out of 5 stars (17 Customer Reviews)
Installation was relatively straightforward, and the necessary parts were included in the kit. The installation is not technically difficult, but gaining access to some the wiring was somewhat irritating because of the assembly techniques used in modern vehicles. Be prepared for somewhat tedious digging around to get to the wires, and pull enough slack to work with them. Once again, a few extra plastic automotive fasteners and automotive cable fasteners came in handy. They're available at a decent hardware store or Home Depot-like store. 63823
by: Don Featherstone08/23/2011
I received the product and it was exactly what I had ordered, it was easy enough to install by myself. However, the only thing I would caution future buyers on is knowing both your "towed vehicle" and your "tow" vehicle's lighting system. I was a little thrown off by the instructions and how it referred to "combined" and "seperate" light systems. I'm sure if your going to wire your vehicles yourself you'll figure it out as I did.22587
First, I'm impressed by the way Etrailer does business (service, quality, quick shipping, communications etc). As for the kit, it has everything needed to setup your car so it can be towed. In fact, it had more than what was needed for my 1998 RAV4.82345
by: Melvyn D01/09/2012
Product was exactly as ordered. Ordered this item for installation on an '09 HHR to be towed behind our Motor Home. It will eliminate alot of potential lighting problems and appears to be simple to install. Shipping was VERY prompt and I will use "etrailer" again, I'm sure.29364
by: Larry M08/14/2013
If your towing a car or truck behind your motorhome, or coach. This is what the doctor ordered. Is a excellent product made very well and quick and simple. Hook up your tow bar and plug in the light cord. 95018
Had a good experiencxe , in fact cancelled another buy and came to etrailer,hope they cane deliver 101514
Installed the wiring kit and it works great, thank you very much.65563
by: Dave G.01/31/2013
Wiring in new cars (very small) is very hard to crimp properly, especially when a trailor package was easily installed.64736
by: Joe M.04/08/2012
Very happy with the wiring kit. I had a local truck accessories dealer install it and they liked it much better than the brand they had been using and plan to switch.36550
INSTTALED IT YESTERDAY AND IT WENT VERY WELL ON A 2012 ESCAPE VERY EASY TO FELLOW INSTRUCTION. I AM VERY SATISFIED. WAITING TO GET MY BASE PLATES NOW.29841
by: Jim S09/27/2012
Delivered as agreed 55927
by: Chris H06/25/2012
Package arrived as expected. I have not installed it as yet but it is just what I need to make my Jeep Wrangler tow-able!45471
by: Jim P.05/14/2012
Installed ok except, the wiring connectors are junk. I went out and purchased 20 quality crimp-on connectors to do the job. Funny thing is that a good connection is essential to having success installing this product.40395
by: William White12/05/2011
your shipping was extremely fast.... very dependable.... everything I ordered was correct shipping...keep up the good work... I would purchase from you again.27770
by: Dave D.07/26/2011
Excellent product with easy to follow instructions As always - etrailer has great products, fair prices, and the best customer service of any online retailer. Keep up the great service!! Dave20295
A great wiring kit that works well for protecting both vehicles. Requires more thought than the plug and play kits but atleast you know exactly what you are getting.72412
Arrived a week sooner than I thought it would, excellent experience22714
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