Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Get automatic, real-time braking in your towed Jeep Commander with the InvisiBrake. Actuator box installs permanently so that you never have to remove, adjust or reactivate. System connects to RV and engages car brakes when the RV brake lights illuminate.
Note: It is recommended that single terminal diodes be replaced with 2-inlet, 1-outlet diodes, such as RM-790 (sold separately).
Wire the InvisiBrake into your Jeep Commander, connecting it to the battery and electrical harness, and you never have to remove it. When you're ready to tow your car, just connect the it to your RV via the included electrical cable, and the system is ready to go.
The InvisiBrake is designed to activate the brakes in your towed car upon receiving a signal from your RV that the motor home's brakes have been applied. This signal is sent via the wiring harness whenever the RV's brake lights are illuminated. This way, you get real-time braking action, ensuring that your towed car brakes at the same time and for the same duration as the brakes in your RV. In addition, there will be no false braking when you hit bumps or potholes.
Adjustable Pressure Settings
The braking pressure of the InvisiBrake can be adjusted from 5 psi to 80 psi depending on your individual application and preferences. Typically, a braking system has to apply an extreme amount of force to activate the towed car's brakes because the vacuum-assist function of the brakes is not active when the ignition is off. This excessive pressure would cause damage to your car if it had "active" brakes. Because this system lets you adjust the braking pressure to a comparatively minimal amount, you can use it on automobiles that have continuous-power-assist brakes, such as Hummers and hybrids, without having to worry about any potential damage.
The pressure setting needs to be adjusted only once, during the initial installation, at which point you can test the system at different settings to determine which feels best. Once the setting is determined, it does not have to be readjusted, so your system is always ready to go.
Permanent, Out-of-the-Way Installation
Most often, the InvisiBrake actuator box installs beneath the front seat of your towed car, neatly tucked away so that you won't see it and it won't take up any storage space in your Jeep Commander. You can, however, install it anywhere in your towed car that is convenient for you, as long as you can still access the adjustment knob.
A bracket and cable pulley will install on the arm of your Jeep Commander's brake pedal. This will not interfere with normal braking function and does not have to be adjusted, removed or activated. The entire system can stay in your car year 'round, waiting for those times when you need to tow. And once you do hook up your car to your RV in preparation for towing, the system will function automatically.
Video of Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport were going to install product number RM-8700 from Roadmaster. This is their InvisiBrake Kit. Alright, first thing we do is figure out where we're going to install pulley and then air cylinder and plus this cable will activate it so we want to keep the bins as little as possible in the cable. So were actually going to hide it underneath the threshold going across here and also by the back seat. So we'll just pop up this threshold here. We're going to lay out our air cylinder in this area right here.
And this panel needs to be moved as well. And then we have to pull back the carpet underneath the pedals. And the more you can pull it back the easier it will be to work with. And then this cover for the wire harness we have to remove and just loosen up the harness 'cause we'll sneak our cable underneath it eventually. Insert our cable and cylinder.
We're going to wrap this under the factory harness and then our cable and our cylinder we'll run towards the back. A few curves are ok, but less is better. We're actually going to tuck it underneath the carpet a little bit too. This band clamp should hold it in place and we're ready to attach it too. We'll leave our cable alone for now and go to the attachment that goes to the brake pedal.
We'll go and install that now. And this is our bracket and were going to install it on that part of the pedal. And you want this part here facing towards the driver. Then let's go ahead and snug that down. Now placement of this bracket will vary because one of the things you want to keep in mind when you install the pulley, it's got to be on a straight line, and plus you don't want the pulley directly behind the pedal as well.
So once you're satisfied with the placement of everything then we go ahead and start attaching our pulley. When we install our cable and adjuster we're going to do it where its about approximately half way in the middle, then we can make our adjustment more done. We'll pull our cable tight and then we'll attach this bracket to the firewall. Now we'll take this bracket and put it over the end of our cable. Lets go back to the wall. Let's make a little notch in the ceiling here so it's set for us. And before we make a permanent attachment in the cable lets go ahead and adjust our cable at the end here make sure that this ball is clearly visible. We'll use the three Ace fasteners to attach it to the wall. One more check to make sure we have about 1/4-inch of play and then we'll go ahead and tighten up the adjusting nuts and we should be good to go. We'll tighten down these two bolts for good as well. And now we scooted the front seat forward and we're going to mount our controller, and try to tuck it in as far as possible, but the contour of the floor doesn't really allow us to go all that far back so part of it we're sticking up behind. Now, what were going to do is remove the nut for the C here, we'll slip our bracket for a control underneath and tighten it down then we're going to self-tapping screw it to the other side. We'll go ahead and install it and just leave it loose for now. And now I know how we're going to attach our controller, just leave it loose for now, so we have access to our fittings in the back. For our back here, lets go ahead and secure the cylinder right here with the band clamp with a self-tapping screw going through the floor board. Well, make sure we have room for our airline that inaudible is fitting right here. I think what we'll do is we'll actually put it to the side and route it under the carpet and back up to our controller. Alright, next we'll go ahead and work with air line. Its a very small line. We'll cut to make sure we have a square in and that will just simply push into the cylinder. And you can push that in until bottoms up. Put a little loop in there so we'll have no kinks, and then leave enough lengths to go underneath the seat when it comes up from behind the trim panel into our controller.Alright, next we'll go ahead and attach our air line going from the controller out to the vacuum line underneath the hood. So need to find a way out of the vehicle into the engine compartment, so let them find a grommet we can use going through the firewall. We're going to run our air line through this grommet right below our wire harness. So well make a slit in there, big enough for our air line and well let you run a couple more wires eventually. Start running our line, well start from our controller and go to the front. Now this line we connect it eventually to this vacuum line coming from the brake booster right here. We'll leave our new line alone for now. To make our connection to the vacuum line we have to cut it in two different places. One spot's going to get a T right here going to the brake booster, then the second section is going to get check valve, red marking will go towards the engine. The kit comes in two different size fittings depending on the vehicle you're working with. I want to cut. Now I'll make our second cut a little bit further away. We'll use this for our test fit for our keys so we know which one we're going to work on. We'll just push these two together. And our half, we'll slide that into place. Make sure that none of the lines are kinked. Then we go ahead and route our new air line to fit it. Cut this a little shorter. Ok, and again, we'll use our piece of air line tubing and run these two together. Alright, before we do anything else, we'll take a few moments to verify that the RV can power a towed vehicle properly. Alright, this one, we can go ahead and start working on our Break Away Kit. Were going to mount it to the bumper structure and locate it about right here. Next, we need to wire up our break away switch. This is the plug that's part of this harness right here. We're going to run this end to the grommet outside to the Break Away Kit. Alright, lets go ahead and continue on with the black wire to plug and run it to our break away switch. Ok, plug the two in together. I like to put a little bit of touch of grease before it contacts before we put them together. And then I like to run a zip tie around it. We'll take up our slack and go ahead and zips tie everything safe and sound. For the black and red wire we're just going to cut it to length ok, and well split it back. Our black wire will go to ground and our red wire will go to the positive side of the battery. We'll also install fuse and a fuse holder. We'll strip our wire back and take the other half of the fuse holder and push it into place until it bottoms out and then we crimp it right here. Push in our fuse until it bottoms out and the same thing with the top half. And what I'm going to do to is attach this to the terminal. However, use the smaller ring terminal then what's provided. Then well take our red wire and hook it up to the positive terminal using a nut that's 6 millimeter and 1.0 thread pitch. Then we hook up our ground wire the same way to our negative terminal. With that we'll go ahead and secure our wires. Next we'll do with the harness with the square plug and these four wires here. Now this orange wire right here will not be used in this application. We dont have to worry about that at all. We'll go ahead and take these wires, run it through the grommet and hook them up to the aftermarket wiring harness has already been installed on the vehicle. And we'll be matching it up color for color.Alright, now we brought our wiring harness down below to the frame, were going to follow the first aftermarket wiring harness a little bit further back and then we'll connect into it. Cut our wires in half. Now we'll go ahead and install our wire for our monitor going up to the motor home. This is the end so we'll run it out to the outside and this end here will get connected to the cold side of the break switch. And now here is the end of our cord and we'll put that with our breakaway switch. Once again well take up our slack and will pull our excess back into the cab. In this case the break switch is pretty far up there and it's really hard to get to. Typically on jeep vehicles white with the brown stripe is typically the break signals so we looked around in the harness, found it, tested it, and it was true and made their connection.Ok, in making a connection we're actually using a quick splice connector. Alright now we'll go ahead and move on to the RV where we'll install the LED and the sound alarm. We're going to install about this point right here, we can actually reach below it, so we can go up to the top here, drop it through and have access to our wires. Now if you get behind it will make things a little easier. We're going to take off this panel here with the trim panel on top below the steering wheel, one on each side, and there is also a metal panel behind this that we're going to remove too.Alright, well take this panel off here. We're going to pull this out so we get to the fastener here. Now this vehicle has been taken apart once or twice already so the fasteners may vary. And now well go ahead and take the metal panel behind the plastic panel down too just so we have more access. If this is a general area we're going to install our LED we're going to drill a hole out in the dash and drop it through like this. To secure the LED to the dash we're going to use a speed nut, and basically what it does is slips over the wires and just pushes on to the body, and the friction holds everything in place. And now this is going to be our alarm right here and we're going to end up actually matching these up color for color. White lead will be going to ground and our red leads are going to go together and go out to the back of the RV going towards the towed vehicle. Well take the two ground wires and run these together with the ring terminal on them. Then we'll ground this to our sheet metal right here, okWell take our two red wires, run those together and install our blue butt connector. And this will connect it to a 50-foot long cord that comes in the kit with the bullet connector on the one end. We can actually take our--some module and just zip tie it out of the way. Now take your long black cable and we'll start from back the RV and right up to the front. We'll stay along the frame wheel and well stay away from anything moving like the suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. We'll cut our wires to length and locate your black wire and we'll hook it up to the two red wires right here. Now we'll go and zip tie our wires safe and out of the way. Right now we'll go and put all of the trim panels back into place and that will finish it for the RV side, all our wires inaudible go ahead and plug them in. Alright, then we'll go ahead and just bundle up our wires and our air lines and we'll go ahead and mount our controller to the vehicle. Now we'll go ahead and put our interior components together and give it a test run. With everything put back together the last thing to do is hook up your motor hole and try it out. And well go ahead and test this system per the instructions. And with that, that will finish it for our install product number RM-8700 on our 2002 Jeep Liberty. Page 1 of 1Order #: etrailer-12.02.05-1.
Average Customer Rating: 4.0 out of 5 stars (1 Customer Reviews)
Great braking system. It should be recommended to purchase the wiring harness. It takes the Roadmaster harness to do it right.94741
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