Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Improve the fuel economy and increase the torque and horsepower of your Wrangler while also ensuring the best full-time airflow, even in off-road conditions, with this complete, easy-to-install, electric radiator fan kit.
Whereas belt-driven fans use up power from the engine to turn, electric fans do not, thus removing any unnecessary load and increasing both fuel economy and horsepower. In addition, you do not have to worry about an electric fan's slowing down at low RPM as many belt-driven ones do, so you are guaranteed sufficient airflow regardless of the vehicle speed. This is especially important in off-roading conditions.
The thermostatic control sends a signal to the fan, directing it to shut off when fluid temperatures reach an appropriate level, thus saving power. Once the temperature climbs again and additional cooling is needed, the fan is automatically turned back on.
Video of Derale Performance Electric Fan Kit for 1987-2006 Jeep Wrangler - 2,400 CFM
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2006 Jeep Wrangler we'll be installing the Derale Performance Electric Fan Kit, part number D20161. To begin our install we'll first go ahead and take the fan assembly and install the mounting bracket. Here's our angle bracket that will get attached to the new fan shroud. The pre-drilled holes will each get secured with a bolt, then a flat washer going through the bracket, through the fan shroud, we'll put an additional flat washer and then a nylon lock nut. So the bolt, the flat washer, going through the bracket, through the fan shroud and underneath we'll install a second flat washer and then the nut. Then once we have our hardware in place we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Once we have our brackets installed we'll then turn the fan shroud over and install the seal provided along the outer edge. The groove cut in the seal will fit over the outer edge.
The seal will go around three sides of our fan shroud. There's a short side it will not fit on. Once we get to the end we can simply use a pair of scissors to cut off the excess. With our fan shroud prepared we'll move to the vehicle. Once we open the hood our first step is removing the reservoir tank. First we'll disconnect the hose as it runs down into the reservoir.
Move the securing clip out of the way and then pull the hose off the tank. Now with the hose disconnected we can pull up on the reservoir bottle releasing it from the fasteners on the bracket. Next we'll remove the four fasteners that secure the fan shroud to the radiator. We'll hang onto the fasteners because we'll reuse them to the install the new fan shroud. Here on the passenger side the lower fastener is just below the AC line. With the four fasteners removed we'll need to pop the fastener free that holds the transmission cooler line to the bottom of the fan shroud.
Once we have that released we'll remove the fan, and fan clutch, we can then remove the fan shroud because it's completely free. We'll next remove the four bolts that secure the fan to the fan clutch and then the four bolts that secure the fan clutch to the pulley. Quick tech tip: These bolts are reverse thread. With the four fasteners removed we'll need to remove the four fasteners that secure the fan clutch to the pulley. To remove the four bolts you'll need to hold the water pump shaft still. In this case we're using a large end wrench or you could use a fan clutch wrench which could be rented or borrowed from your local auto parts supply.
Once we pop it loose we'll just go ahead and back it off. Once we remove the fan clutch from the pulley shaft we can go ahead and remove the fan, the fan clutch, and shroud from the vehicle. We'll need to remove the wiring connector that goes into the manufacturer's temperature sensor, which is here at the top of the housing where the upper radiator hose goes in. We'll locate the sensor and then remove the connector. To remove the connector press on the connector lock and then remove it from the sensor. We'll just set that aside for now. Next we'll need to remove the sensor completely. Note: When you remove the temperature sensor you will have some coolant loss that will need to be topped off later. Next we'll install the supplied key into the housing where we just removed the manufacturer's sensor. Before we install it we'll want to put some sealant on the threads first. Using a paint 00:06:10 sealer, we'll go ahead and put it on the threads now. Now we're ready to install the new T. When we install the T we want to make sure both fittings are in the up direction. Next I'm going to go ahead and just slide this clamp out of the way so that it doesn't interfere with the coolant temperature sensor when I install it into the T. We won't be removing the clamp, we're simply just going to rotate it out of the way. Now that we've made room for the coolant temperature sensor, we'll go ahead and put some sealant on the threads and reinstall the manufacturer's sensor. Quick tech tip: I recommend to clean off the old sealant before you install the new thread sealer. Using a tube brush part number 814092 just go ahead and simply clean off those threads. Now that we have the old sealant cleaned off we'll go ahead and put the new sealant on. Once we have the manufacturer's sensor back in place we'll go ahead and install the plug. Next we'll need to install the bushing that goes into the T. We'll take our thread sealant, put it on the bushing threads and then install it into the T. After we install it we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Then we'll take the new coolant temperature sensor and install it into the bushing that goes into the T. Once again we'll put some sealant on the threads. Now with the T, bushing and sensors installed, we'll go ahead and leave that and install the new fan shroud. Now we'll take the fan assembly and bracket that we previously installed, we're going to set the fan assembly in position and bolt it to the radiator. Note: The electrical connector here that goes to the fan assembly will be on the passenger side. Using the manufacturer's hardware that we removed earlier we'll take the bolt and secure the new fan shroud to the radiator. We'll install each fastener finger tight until we have them all in place. As we install the driver side hardware we'll also add the new coolant tank reservoir bracket. We'll use the slotted holes in the bracket to line up with the slotted holes in the bracket on the new fan shroud to line up with the manufacturer's attachment point. Once we have all four fasteners installed we'll go ahead and tighten them down. Then we can go ahead and reinstall the coolant tank reservoir. Then we'll go ahead and reinstall the tank reservoir hose, clamp and set the tank reservoir onto the new bracket. Next we'll take the wiring harness and relay and start installing it. The green wire that comes from our relay is actually for an overload circuit that we won't be using for this application. I'm just going to cut it short and tape it up. The orange wire with an in-line fuse holder will go to the red wire for the fan motor. Our yellow wire will run to the new coolant temperature switch we already installed. The black wire will be the relay ground and the red wire will run to the battery. Let's go ahead and start routing our wires. We'll secure the relay inside the engine compartment through the pre-drilled hole using a self-tapping screw. We'll take the red wire that needs to go to battery power, we could add it here to the positive battery terminal stud or remove the cap from the fuse panel and add it here with a ring terminal. We'll go ahead and take the red wire, strip it back and then add the ring terminal supplied with the install kit. Then I'll remove the nut from the positive battery post here at the fuse box, install the ring terminal and then re-secure the nut. This will supply our 12 volt power to the relay. Once we have it secured we'll then go ahead and close the fuse box. Next using a self-tapping screw I'll go ahead and secure the relay inside the engine compartment. Next we'll take the black wire, trim it back, and add the red ring terminal, and then use a self-tapping screw to secure it to the body of the vehicle. Note: When choosing the location we recommend to find a spot where the sheet metal doubles up for a good and secured ground. Next I'll take the yellow wire from the relay, we'll go ahead and show you the route that we'll be taking to get it over to the coolant temperature sensor. To help protect this wire as it routes across the engine bank, we can use the electrical loom provided with the install kit. We'll use the wire to figure out the length of our wire loom. We'll cut it just a little short so we can add a connector on the end. Once we've got our length we'll then go ahead and feed the yellow wire into the wire loom. Now with the wire loom installed we'll go ahead and strip back the yellow wire and add the female spade connector provided with the install kit. We'll route the wire, connect it to the new coolant temperature sensor and then secure our wiring. We'll use the black zip ties provided with our install kit. With our wire routed, installed and secured, we'll move on to the orange wire run down to our fan. Next we'll take the orange wire from our wiring harness that routes to the fan motor and protect it with some of the wire loom provided with the install kit. We'll use the wire to measure the length of our wire loom, cut to length and then install it. Now let's go ahead and route the wire. Just to help hold my wire loom in place I can add some electrical tape to the end of the wire loom. Here's the orange wire we fed from up above. We'll pull out enough length that we can connect it here to the red wire. Now there's no connector so we'll go ahead and cut this off and strip back our wire. Then we can use the blue butt connector supplied with install kit to connect the red and orange wires. Once we have this connection made we'll go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape. Wrapping it up with the black electrical tape will help keep it free from dirt, dust, debris and moisture. We'll add a blue ring terminal for the black wire, we'll run it to ground to ground the fan motor. To secure it to ground we'll use a self-tapping screw. Once our ground is secure we'll go ahead and feed the wire back up to the top where we can bundle it up and secure it. We'll pull up our excess wire that we ran down below, we'll take the wire that we ran earlier, and this wire, bundle it up and secure it with a zip tie. I'm also going to secure my red power wire here as we go. Now with the new Derale wiring harness and relay kit installed and secured, I'm going to cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up the install look. Next we'll need to take a wire, connect it to our female spade and run it to an ignition source. This wire will only be hot when the key is in the on or run position. For this application to connect to the manufacturer's key on source we'll need to route the wire inside. We're going to add approximately 12' of red wire to our install. First we'll go ahead and take our wire, strip it back and add our connector. We'll go ahead and connect the spade terminal to the coolant temperature sensor and start routing our wire. We'll just follow the manufacturer's wire over toward the driver side fender well. We'll use our zip ties to secure the wiring as we go. Now we'll follow the wires that already go through the manufacturer's grommet into the cabin of the vehicle. Now with our routed into the cab of the vehicle I'm going to cut off the excess of my zip ties to clean up the install look. Then we can move into the cab. Now that we're routed inside, we're going to go over the top of the brake pedal bracket towards the manufacturer's wiring above the gas pedal. We'll need to route underneath the dash panel behind the HVAC venting over to the passenger side. To assist in routing my wire over to the passenger side we're going to use a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire, or in this case a piece of air tubing. We'll route the air tubing behind the panel first to make sure it comes out on the passenger side and then attach the red power wire to the tubing and pull it over to the passenger side. Next our wire will need to route up behind the glove box so that we can access the manufacturer's fuse panel. Let's go ahead and remove the glove box door. To remove it we'll simply open it, remove the catch cable, rotate it down and release the hinges. As you can see directly behind the glove box is the manufacturer's fuse pane. Using a test light we can check the fuses to see which ones are hot with the key on, but cold or off, with the key off. Test the fuse first with the key off. Then we'll put the key in, turn it on to auxiliary mode. In auxiliary mode the lights will come on the dash and the radio is able to play. Then we'll test our fuse for power, which will now indicate that the fuse is hot only with the key on. To connect to the fuse box we're gong to use a fuse cap. The fuse cap, we'll be using the Firestone Fuse Cap Kit part number F2526. We'll plug into the manufacturer's fuse port, installing the manufacturer's fuse into the first position or top in this orientation, in the bottom one we'll install a second inaudible 00:21:19 fuse for the power wire to our coolant temperature sensor. Let's go ahead and remove the manufacturer's fuse. Then we'll take our power wire and route it up to the fuse panel. Once we have our wire pulled up in position we'll go ahead and cut off the excess, strip it back. We'll feed our wire into the butt connector already secured to the fuse cap 00:21:42 and crimp it down. With our connection made we'll go ahead and install the manufacturer's fuse into the top position on the fuse port and our new 10 amp fuse into the bottom position. Now with both fuses installed we can install the fuse cap into the fuse port. First we'll go ahead and wrap up our connection with some black electrical tape. With it taped up we'll go ahead and install it into the fuse port of the fuse box. Then I'll go ahead and secure the wiring, cut off the excess on the zip tie to clean up our install look and then we can reinstall the glove box. Now with everything installed and our zip ties cut and cleaned up we'll go ahead and put our fuse into the fuse holder. Before we start the vehicle we're going to go ahead and remove the radiator cap and top off the coolant level. Once we top it off we can then go ahead and star the vehicle and bring it up to operating temperature. Once it reaches operating temperature our new Derale fan will kick on. Now we have the vehicle up to operating temperature we can hear the fan run. We'll allow the vehicle fan to run until it cools the engine back down and cycles off. Now the fan has kicked off because it has brought the vehicle's temperature back down. That does it for the install of our Derale Performance Electric Fan Kit part number D20161 on our 2006 Jeep Wrangler. .
Average Customer Rating: 5.0 out of 5 stars (2 Customer Reviews)Improve the fuel economy and increase the torque and horsepower of your Wrangler while also ensuring the best full-time airflow, even in off-road conditions, with this complete, easy-to-install, electric radiator fan kit.
by: Brett West03/05/2011
If your looking for direct fit this is the kit. And the service from etrailier and Derale was awsome. 8512
Works great, fit my 2005 Wrangler with no problems. Works just as described. 135499
Ask the Experts about this Derale Radiator Fans
Do you have a question about this Radiator Fans?
Info for this part was:
At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.