Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Tow Ready ModuLite Wiring Harness with Powered Converter by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese
Warning: Overloading circuit can cause fires. Do not exceed lower of towing manufacturer rating or:
Included with Hardwire Kit:
Video of Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit)
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2013 Buick Enclave, we're going to install part number 119147KIT from Tow Ready. First thing we need to do is go ahead and open up the back hatch and get access to the tail lights. Then, we need to remove two plastic covers for the screws. You can pry them just a little bit and they simply pop off. Once we have access to the screws, we'll go ahead and unbolt the tail light. With the screws removed we'll go ahead and gently pull the tail light out backwards and away from the body work.
The wire harness going to the light unclips and we can actually get a full extension of the wires. We can take our light and put it off to the side and with this way we have full access to our wire harness. We're done with the driver side. Let's go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Now, we can go ahead and start installing our module. First, we need to find a place.
There's not much room in here so we're going to carve this in the plastic at the bottom and mount it below the tail light. First, we'll go ahead and trace an outline around the module to give us an idea of how much we need to cut out. We'll be using a rotary tool to make our cut out. After initial cut out you're going to have to do a couple of test fits to make sure you have room. After you have the room you need, we can go ahead and install the module. First off, I want to take the four pole and the green wire and run it below the tail light and out the bottom.
Then, with the remaining wires staying above the module, we'll go ahead and slip the module into place. We'll hold it in place with a self tacking screw in this case part number FA1131822 will work fine to hold the module in place. With the module in place we can go ahead and start hard wiring the rest of the wires. We'll be making our connections with a quick splice connectors. To start off, we're going to need a ground point. We'll go ahead and start off our white wire with a ring terminal install that into the sheet metal for our ground.
Then our tester we can use use the same ground for. Next, we'll go ahead and test for our first wire. We'll be looking for the running light circuit. In testing the wires we found out that the red wire right behind the tail light was our running light circuit so we're going to go ahead and connect our brown wire from our module to our red wire. Next, we'll look for our turn signal. In testing we found out that this was yellow wire. So, we'll connect our yellow wire from the module to this wire. Now, also the tail lights on this vehicle are combined so we made all the connections we need here. So, we'll go ahead and tape up the wires. Then our red wire is left over, we'll add a ring terminal to it and add it to the existing ground. Now, we'll go ahead and work our power wire that needs to be ran up to the battery. Just so your black wire coming out from the module. We'll connect the extra length of wire that comes with the kit. Using the supplied buck connector we'll go ahead and connect the two wires. This will be colored black to black then we'll go ahead and secure our connection with some electrical tape. Then we'll run our black wire down behind our panel. We saved this wire for last simply because you can't get access to it once you're down in the bottom. Then we can go ahead and reinstall the tail light. Then, we'll go underneath the vehicle and pull out our wires. We'll go ahead and take our four pole wire and run it out to our hitch. Our green wire, we'll go ahead and run it over to the other side, as far as possible and we'll pull out our black wire but leave it alone for now. Now, to help keep our wires bundled together while I go across the top of the exhaust we're going to use some loom material, part number 459075-1. We'll also be using a loom clamp to help hold it up to, part number A0500. Then, we'll go ahead and zip tie our wires in place. Make sure they're safe and secure and out of the way, not touching anything hot. Now we run our green wire over to the other side, we're going to have to add an extra piece of wire to it. This is a regular piece of 16 gage wire. We'll make a connection with a buck connector and seal it up with some tape. Then we'll go ahead and run it over the exhaust and once again, we'll use a loom clamp and some zip ties to hold it up and out of the way. Then we'll pull our wire up from the bottom to the top. Now, to do this we're going to go ahead and use a piece of air line tubing. Once we pull it up we'll go ahead and zip tie it off to help secure it to keep it from falling back down. Then we'll make our final connection to the tail light. This case our right turn signal was also a yellow wire so we'll make our connection, cut off our excess. Then we can go ahead and reinstall the tail light. This point, we can go ahead and run our power wire up to the front of the car. When we do this we're going to go ahead and route it above the hitch, above the exhaust hanger then over our rear suspension components, then we'll follow the brake lines going all the way up towards the front. We'll go ahead and attach our wire to the air line then use the air line to push up from the bottom to the top. Now, we'll get underneath the hood and pull up the remaining wire. Then we'll run across over to our power distribution box. Due to the fact that the batter is sitting on this vehicle. There we'll go ahead and add a fuse holder. For a fuse holder, we need to cut it in half. One end will get the buck connector and the other end will get the ring terminal. We'll connect our ring terminal and then we'll go ahead and attach the fuse holder to our black wire and then we'll go ahead and attach the ring terminal to the power distribution box. We'll use existing nut for power cable going to it and attach there. Once we have it attached we can go ahead and put the cover back into place then we'll go ahead and tuck our wire underneath the plastic. We'll go ahead and remove the rivets by simply pulling up on the middle of a rivet, releasing it so we can pull them up and out of the way. Then, we'll take our wire and just tuck it underneath the plastic. Then, we'll go ahead and reinstall the rivets. And finally, we can go ahead and install our fuse for our fuse holder. With that, our installation is complete. Now go ahead and try it out. We'll take our light tester and connect it to the white wire for ground and then we'll test the ground wire for running light circuit. Then we'll go ahead and test our yellow wire for our left turn signal and then we'll test our green wire for right turn signal. Now brake signal will be a constant signal from the green and yellow wires. And with that done we're finished with part number 119147KIT on our 2013 Buick Enclave. .
Average Customer Rating: 4.6 out of 5 stars (21 Customer Reviews)Tow Ready ModuLite Wiring Harness with Powered Converter by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese
I just installed by my own on BMW 135i 2010 despite the fact few dealers and u-haul refused to help me. It is a way easier installation(45mins) as compared to other car brands, because the battery is at the back of the car. The only thing you would need from the kit is one more butt connector. I had a problem to find a place for ground - but it is solvable. I used crocodile connector and tape to connect to one of the screws of the back light. One more easy thing for dummies. To test the right wire you will need to connect one end of the tester to the ground of the car, switch on the light to test and connect the tester(which is also in the kit). For tail light you will need to switch on the car engine. If you do not want to test these here are the colors you use in your car Left side of the car in multibulb assembly wires: MODULITE ----------------------------------------------135i LEFT TURN -------------------------------------- Blue wire with green stripe BRAKES ----------------------------------------- Purple with Yellow stripe Left side of the car on Tail light bulb harness: TAIL LIGHTS ------------------------------------ Purple wire with Light Blue stripe Right side of the car in multibulb assembly: RIGHT TURN ------------------------------------- Blue wire with Brown stripe ^^^I took this description from open source of one of the BMW forums. For me it worked out well. As for the Modulite colors they are in the pdf Instructions of this Modulite. I do not know why I did not get this in a printout with modulite, but I got this info here http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=119147KIT 148050
by: Ted K06/03/2014
I recommend the Tow-Ready 119147KIT instead of the Curt Model for a 2013 Prius. I had to return the Curt Kit because the running lights/tail light stayed on all the time even with the vehicle off. Sometimes there wasn’t a tail/running light on if you reset the converter by removing and re-installing the fuse. This Tow-Ready model works like it should. You'll need 12 gauge wire to run from the battery, (right side hatch area,) to this unit which will need to be mounted on the driver’s side, rear hatch. At the very top of the left rear tail light are covered wires going into a plug. The Blue is the Stop light and the Brown is the tail/running light. (Be careful since these wires are thin solid copper wires.) Left turn signal is the green/yellow stripe wire and on the right side rear lamp the right turn signal is also the green/yellow stripe wire. You will need to remove the left rear panel to get to the blue and brown wires. Remove the bottom tray cover, the bottom tray as well as the left rear plastic tray and the plastic bottom hatch trim over the latch assembly. Remove the Phillips screw on the left rear panel as well as the chrome tie down clamp. This sounds harder than it really is. Good luck! 134002
It feels heavy duty and is working exactly as it should. Easy wiring in my 2005 Passat TDI. The most difficult part was bring the 12ga wire from the battery to the rear of the vehicle. The effort was worth it; I have a professional looking install that works perfectly. 78902
by: Kevin C.08/05/2014
2014 WRX wagon at taillight: WHT/RED = Turn signal BLK/WHTstripe = Running light BRN = Brake light I mounted the modulator behind the left turn signal. I routed the power wire through the trunk via rubber access plug. I then fished the power wire under rear seat and stuffed it under plastic trim molding along the doors. I went behind left kick panel and then came out and ran it into the fender well, between the door and the fender, and up a structure tube into the engine compartment. The wire is safe from damage and will not be crushed by shutting the door because of the rubber door seal. I ran my XM ant. wire like this also and there are no negative consequences. 144319
by: Bob S06/22/2013
Very very confusing and incomplete directions, NO way to understand the difference between the red "2 wire or 3 wire setup" Very very annoying, parts missing in, i.e. 12 gage wire, fuze for battery connection. I would NOT recommend anyone with a BMW 135i buy this product, I am very dissatisfied with this confusing and incomplete kit 85543
Everything needed for a clean install is provided. The only problem I had was the quick splice wire connectors. The 2015 Subaru WRX had very small diameter wiring for the tail and brake light wires and the wire connectors would not make contact. I spliced the wires manually and everything worked fine. 135872
Generic kit but with the included test light I was able to install it solo! I could press on the brake pedal and look back at the test light. The green wire was not long enough for my Volt so I had to splice in extra wire. The kit says it will work with LED lights in the car or on the trailer. 103644
by: Dave K.06/24/2014
So far so good. Disappointed there were no instructions included, Son- In -Law & I figured it out. Could not find install for this kit on my 2011 Kia Sportage anywhere on net. Did not hook up like any found on net , but after 11 man hrs. .... It works! 137527
by: Scott G06/02/2014
Got it wired up everything works great! Thank You 133872
by: Jared Carpenter03/24/2014
Again with the excellent service of etrailers got the parts for a good Price n fast shipping n the best part was non of my part were damaged or missing anything it was all there I will be ordering more from them 121877
Hitch went on super fast. I had the wiring and hitch installed in about an hour. I love working with Etrailer staff. They have top notch customer service and I recommend them to everyone looking for towing gear. 149873
Awesome! The hitch receiver and wiring harness arrived in time and was supper easy to install. Really glade I chose to order from etrailer. 174866
by: LeRoy K.05/04/2014
Very simple install. Took about an hour an half, only because of being careful about removing panels from wife's new car. 128840
by: Gary G08/05/2014
Arrived quick and the packaging was spot on. Product was protected well and no damage. Much appreciated. 144453
by: James C.06/16/2013
The product works great. A little hard to route the wires on my vehicle. 84890
by: Mark M12/19/2013
Great product, excellent service from ordering to my door. 110436
by: Bob A05/29/2014
Easy, Fast transaction. I highly recommend etrailer, 133233
by: Marc L11/01/2013
Product was exactly as described and easy to install! 105992
Easy to install. Comes with all you need for BMW. 131838
by: Duane C06/25/2014
I like the product looks very nice Great job 137587
by: Jack F.05/14/2013
good quality ALL pieces were in package. 80251
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