Call at 800-298-8924 for expert service. We are your Ford Wiring experts, and offer a lowest price guarantee. carries a complete line of Tow Ready products for your Ford Explorer 2014. Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) part 119147KIT from Tow Ready can be ordered online at Complete Wiring installation instructions and technical support.
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Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring > 2014 > Ford > Explorer

Tow Ready Wiring for the Ford Explorer, 2014

Tow Ready Wiring

(20 reviews)

Code:   119147KIT



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Shipping Weight: 1.944 pounds


Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) - Ford Explorer, 2014

Tow Ready ModuLite Wiring Harness with Powered Converter by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese


  • Virtually eliminates draw on the Ford Explorer's taillight circuit
  • Works with either LED or incandescent bulbs on both the trailer and Ford Explorer
  • Works with most Ford Explorers multiplex wiring systems for lighting
  • Taillight circuit has been upgraded to work with Ford Explorers using PWM, allowing converter to turn on fully giving trailer maximum light brightness
  • Powers the trailer's stop, turn, tail and running lights directly from the tow Ford Explorer's battery
  • May be used on 2 and 3 wire systems
    • When used on 2 wire systems, brake wire on harness must be grounded
  • Eliminates the need for a heavy duty flasher
  • Includes circuit tester, wire to run to the battery, and (5) quick splices to aid in installation
    • Also includes 4-pole trailer connector cover

Warning: Overloading circuit can cause fires. Do not exceed lower of towing manufacturer rating or:

  • Max. stop/turn light: 1 per side (2.1 amps)
  • Max. tail lights: (7.5 amps)
  • Read Ford Explorer's owners manual and instruction sheet for additional information.

Included with Hardwire Kit:

  • Upgraded Modulite Wiring Harness (# 119147)
  • Modulite Install Kit (# 118151)
    • 20' of 12 gauge wire, ring terminals, and inline fuse for battery connection
  • Circuit Tester
    • To help find wires behind Ford Explorer tail lights to gather signals
  • (5) Quick splice wiring connectors
    • Makes tapping into wires quick and easy
  • Integrated 4-Pole Cover
    • Protects 4-pole connector from the elements and reduces dirt, debris and corrosion for trouble-free use

119148 ModuLite Wiring Harness with Powered Converter and Hardwire Kit with Testers

Video of Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

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Video Transcript for Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Buick Enclave

Today on this 2013 Buick Enclave, we're going to install part number 119147KIT from Tow Ready. First thing we need to do is go ahead and open up the back hatch and get access to the tail lights. Then, we need to remove two plastic covers for the screws. You can pry them just a little bit and they simply pop off. Once we have access to the screws, we'll go ahead and unbolt the tail light. With the screws removed we'll go ahead and gently pull the tail light out backwards and away from the body work.

The wire harness going to the light unclips and we can actually get a full extension of the wires. We can take our light and put it off to the side and with this way we have full access to our wire harness. We're done with the driver side. Let's go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Now, we can go ahead and start installing our module. First, we need to find a place.

There's not much room in here so we're going to carve this in the plastic at the bottom and mount it below the tail light. First, we'll go ahead and trace an outline around the module to give us an idea of how much we need to cut out. We'll be using a rotary tool to make our cut out. After initial cut out you're going to have to do a couple of test fits to make sure you have room. After you have the room you need, we can go ahead and install the module. First off, I want to take the four pole and the green wire and run it below the tail light and out the bottom.

Then, with the remaining wires staying above the module, we'll go ahead and slip the module into place. We'll hold it in place with a self tacking screw in this case part number FA1131822 will work fine to hold the module in place. With the module in place we can go ahead and start hard wiring the rest of the wires. We'll be making our connections with a quick splice connectors. To start off, we're going to need a ground point. We'll go ahead and start off our white wire with a ring terminal install that into the sheet metal for our ground.

Then our tester we can use use the same ground for. Next, we'll go ahead and test for our first wire. We'll be looking for the running light circuit. In testing the wires we found out that the red wire right behind the tail light was our running light circuit so we're going to go ahead and connect our brown wire from our module to our red wire. Next, we'll look for our turn signal. In testing we found out that this was yellow wire. So, we'll connect our yellow wire from the module to this wire. Now, also the tail lights on this vehicle are combined so we made all the connections we need here. So, we'll go ahead and tape up the wires. Then our red wire is left over, we'll add a ring terminal to it and add it to the existing ground. Now, we'll go ahead and work our power wire that needs to be ran up to the battery. Just so your black wire coming out from the module. We'll connect the extra length of wire that comes with the kit. Using the supplied buck connector we'll go ahead and connect the two wires. This will be colored black to black then we'll go ahead and secure our connection with some electrical tape. Then we'll run our black wire down behind our panel. We saved this wire for last simply because you can't get access to it once you're down in the bottom. Then we can go ahead and reinstall the tail light. Then, we'll go underneath the vehicle and pull out our wires. We'll go ahead and take our four pole wire and run it out to our hitch. Our green wire, we'll go ahead and run it over to the other side, as far as possible and we'll pull out our black wire but leave it alone for now. Now, to help keep our wires bundled together while I go across the top of the exhaust we're going to use some loom material, part number 459075-1. We'll also be using a loom clamp to help hold it up to, part number A0500. Then, we'll go ahead and zip tie our wires in place. Make sure they're safe and secure and out of the way, not touching anything hot. Now we run our green wire over to the other side, we're going to have to add an extra piece of wire to it. This is a regular piece of 16 gage wire. We'll make a connection with a buck connector and seal it up with some tape. Then we'll go ahead and run it over the exhaust and once again, we'll use a loom clamp and some zip ties to hold it up and out of the way. Then we'll pull our wire up from the bottom to the top. Now, to do this we're going to go ahead and use a piece of air line tubing. Once we pull it up we'll go ahead and zip tie it off to help secure it to keep it from falling back down. Then we'll make our final connection to the tail light. This case our right turn signal was also a yellow wire so we'll make our connection, cut off our excess. Then we can go ahead and reinstall the tail light. This point, we can go ahead and run our power wire up to the front of the car. When we do this we're going to go ahead and route it above the hitch, above the exhaust hanger then over our rear suspension components, then we'll follow the brake lines going all the way up towards the front. We'll go ahead and attach our wire to the air line then use the air line to push up from the bottom to the top. Now, we'll get underneath the hood and pull up the remaining wire. Then we'll run across over to our power distribution box. Due to the fact that the batter is sitting on this vehicle. There we'll go ahead and add a fuse holder. For a fuse holder, we need to cut it in half. One end will get the buck connector and the other end will get the ring terminal. We'll connect our ring terminal and then we'll go ahead and attach the fuse holder to our black wire and then we'll go ahead and attach the ring terminal to the power distribution box. We'll use existing nut for power cable going to it and attach there. Once we have it attached we can go ahead and put the cover back into place then we'll go ahead and tuck our wire underneath the plastic. We'll go ahead and remove the rivets by simply pulling up on the middle of a rivet, releasing it so we can pull them up and out of the way. Then, we'll take our wire and just tuck it underneath the plastic. Then, we'll go ahead and reinstall the rivets. And finally, we can go ahead and install our fuse for our fuse holder. With that, our installation is complete. Now go ahead and try it out. We'll take our light tester and connect it to the white wire for ground and then we'll test the ground wire for running light circuit. Then we'll go ahead and test our yellow wire for our left turn signal and then we'll test our green wire for right turn signal. Now brake signal will be a constant signal from the green and yellow wires. And with that done we're finished with part number 119147KIT on our 2013 Buick Enclave. .

Customer Reviews

Upgraded Modulite Vehicle Wiring Harness Kit with 4 Pole Trailer Connector (Includes Install Kit) - 119147KIT

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (20 Customer Reviews)

Tow Ready ModuLite Wiring Harness with Powered Converter by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese

- 119147KIT

by: AndyS08/22/2014

I just installed by my own on BMW 135i 2010 despite the fact few dealers and u-haul refused to help me. It is a way easier installation(45mins) as compared to other car brands, because the battery is at the back of the car. The only thing you would need from the kit is one more butt connector. I had a problem to find a place for ground - but it is solvable. I used crocodile connector and tape to connect to one of the screws of the back light. One more easy thing for dummies. To test the right wire you will need to connect one end of the tester to the ground of the car, switch on the light to test and connect the tester(which is also in the kit). For tail light you will need to switch on the car engine. If you do not want to test these here are the colors you use in your car Left side of the car in multibulb assembly wires: MODULITE ----------------------------------------------135i LEFT TURN -------------------------------------- Blue wire with green stripe BRAKES ----------------------------------------- Purple with Yellow stripe Left side of the car on Tail light bulb harness: TAIL LIGHTS ------------------------------------ Purple wire with Light Blue stripe Right side of the car in multibulb assembly: RIGHT TURN ------------------------------------- Blue wire with Brown stripe ^^^I took this description from open source of one of the BMW forums. For me it worked out well. As for the Modulite colors they are in the pdf Instructions of this Modulite. I do not know why I did not get this in a printout with modulite, but I got this info here 148050

- 119147KIT

by: Ted K06/03/2014

I recommend the Tow-Ready 119147KIT instead of the Curt Model for a 2013 Prius. I had to return the Curt Kit because the running lights/tail light stayed on all the time even with the vehicle off. Sometimes there wasn’t a tail/running light on if you reset the converter by removing and re-installing the fuse. This Tow-Ready model works like it should. You'll need 12 gauge wire to run from the battery, (right side hatch area,) to this unit which will need to be mounted on the driver’s side, rear hatch. At the very top of the left rear tail light are covered wires going into a plug. The Blue is the Stop light and the Brown is the tail/running light. (Be careful since these wires are thin solid copper wires.) Left turn signal is the green/yellow stripe wire and on the right side rear lamp the right turn signal is also the green/yellow stripe wire. You will need to remove the left rear panel to get to the blue and brown wires. Remove the bottom tray cover, the bottom tray as well as the left rear plastic tray and the plastic bottom hatch trim over the latch assembly. Remove the Phillips screw on the left rear panel as well as the chrome tie down clamp. This sounds harder than it really is. Good luck! 134002


Thanks for the installation details. I also have a 2013 Prius and everything went a lot smoother with your information. I didnt even need a test light.

comment by: BBOWL - 06/23/2014


I agree - very helpful information on installing on a 2013 Toyota Prius. This told me which wire was which light and even gave helpful tips on removing the panels that I was sure I couldnt do, until I read what you wrote. Thank you so much- saved me lots of irritation.

comment by: Kathy C - 06/27/2014


- 119147KIT

by: Surfdude05/03/2013

It feels heavy duty and is working exactly as it should. Easy wiring in my 2005 Passat TDI. The most difficult part was bring the 12ga wire from the battery to the rear of the vehicle. The effort was worth it; I have a professional looking install that works perfectly. 78902


The product works perfectly. A year later it still looks and works like a factory installed item.

Eric P - 05/03/2014


- 119147KIT

by: Kevin C.08/05/2014

2014 WRX wagon at taillight: WHT/RED = Turn signal BLK/WHTstripe = Running light BRN = Brake light I mounted the modulator behind the left turn signal. I routed the power wire through the trunk via rubber access plug. I then fished the power wire under rear seat and stuffed it under plastic trim molding along the doors. I went behind left kick panel and then came out and ran it into the fender well, between the door and the fender, and up a structure tube into the engine compartment. The wire is safe from damage and will not be crushed by shutting the door because of the rubber door seal. I ran my XM ant. wire like this also and there are no negative consequences. 144319

- 119147KIT

by: Bob S06/22/2013

Very very confusing and incomplete directions, NO way to understand the difference between the red "2 wire or 3 wire setup" Very very annoying, parts missing in, i.e. 12 gage wire, fuze for battery connection. I would NOT recommend anyone with a BMW 135i buy this product, I am very dissatisfied with this confusing and incomplete kit 85543


Hardwire kits like this take a little bit of extra work and require a basic understanding of some electrical basics. If anyone ever has questions, give us a call at 1-800-298-8924 and our techs can help out quite a bit with the project and get you up to speed on the background info you will need to complete the task. We also have some great videos on the subject.

Patrick B - 08/29/2013


- 119147KIT

by: SDWagner06/17/2014

Everything needed for a clean install is provided. The only problem I had was the quick splice wire connectors. The 2015 Subaru WRX had very small diameter wiring for the tail and brake light wires and the wire connectors would not make contact. I spliced the wires manually and everything worked fine. 135872

- 119147KIT

by: Norton10/13/2013

Generic kit but with the included test light I was able to install it solo! I could press on the brake pedal and look back at the test light. The green wire was not long enough for my Volt so I had to splice in extra wire. The kit says it will work with LED lights in the car or on the trailer. 103644

- 119147KIT

by: Dave K.06/24/2014

So far so good. Disappointed there were no instructions included, Son- In -Law & I figured it out. Could not find install for this kit on my 2011 Kia Sportage anywhere on net. Did not hook up like any found on net , but after 11 man hrs. .... It works! 137527

- 119147KIT

by: Scott G06/02/2014

Got it wired up everything works great! Thank You 133872

- 119147KIT

by: Jared Carpenter03/24/2014

Again with the excellent service of etrailers got the parts for a good Price n fast shipping n the best part was non of my part were damaged or missing anything it was all there I will be ordering more from them 121877

- 119147KIT

by: Dave09/03/2014

Hitch went on super fast. I had the wiring and hitch installed in about an hour. I love working with Etrailer staff. They have top notch customer service and I recommend them to everyone looking for towing gear. 149873

- 119147KIT

by: LeRoy K.05/04/2014

Very simple install. Took about an hour an half, only because of being careful about removing panels from wife's new car. 128840

- 119147KIT

by: Gary G08/05/2014

Arrived quick and the packaging was spot on. Product was protected well and no damage. Much appreciated. 144453

- 119147KIT

by: James C.06/16/2013

The product works great. A little hard to route the wires on my vehicle. 84890

- 119147KIT

by: Mark M12/19/2013

Great product, excellent service from ordering to my door. 110436

- 119147KIT

by: Bob A05/29/2014

Easy, Fast transaction. I highly recommend etrailer, 133233

- 119147KIT

by: Marc L11/01/2013

Product was exactly as described and easy to install! 105992

- 119147KIT

by: Ryan05/22/2014

Easy to install. Comes with all you need for BMW. 131838

- 119147KIT

by: Duane C06/25/2014

I like the product looks very nice Great job 137587

- 119147KIT

by: Jack F.05/14/2013

good quality ALL pieces were in package. 80251


Ask the Experts about this Tow Ready Wiring
Do you have a question about this Wiring?

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  • Will the Honda Pilot Replacement OEM Tow Package Wiring Work with the 2010 Honda Pilot
  • If your vehicle has the factory towing package installed then the Honda Pilot Replacement OEM Tow Package Wiring (7-Way) w/ Circuit Protected ModuLite HD Module, item # 118253, will work on your vehicle and then you will need to use a 7-Way to 4-Way connector adapter, # PK12716, to convert the 7-Way connector to a 4-Way connector on your trailer if applicable. If you do not have the factory tow package on your vehicle, or you only want to install a 4-Way connector, you can use the Upgraded...
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  • Exhaust Modifications for 2001 Ford Crown Victoria with Dual Exhaust
  • In order to clear the exhaust, the hanger will need to be bent to avoid contact with the hitch once it is installed. This is a pretty simple process, which should not require a trip to the muffler shop or any major modifications. I have linked you to an FAQ article that explains how to manipulate the muffler hangers to move the muffler further away from the hitch. If you should need the 4 pole trailer connector for trailer lighting, we offer the Upgraded Circuit Protected Modulite with...
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  • How to Install Trailer Wiring on a 2012 Volkswagen Passat TDI
  • The Tow Ready wiring harness we list for the 2012 Volkswagen Passat is actually # 119147KIT. But you could use # 119190KIT if you wanted. You will need to test the tail light wires to confirm the following: On the vehicle, the black wire with a white tracer should be left turn signal, brake, and tail light and will connect to the harness yellow wire. Black with red tracer should be right turn signal, brake, and tail light and will connect to the harness green wire. Red and brown...
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  • Will Trailer Hitch Installation Interfere with Advanced Keyless Entry on a 2013 Mazda CX-9
  • If I understand the Mazda advanced keyless entry system correctly for the 2013 CX-9, the antenna is built into the rear glass. Installation of a trailer hitch should not have any affect on its use or range. I know that Mazda offers a trailer hitch as an option and makes no mention of the OEM hitch interfering with the antenna. If you plan to use a trailer hitch for towing make sure that the CX-9 you get or have has the towing prep package which includes a heavy duty transmission cooler...
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Ford Explorer Accessories

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V

Expert Research:
Michael L

Video Edited:
Zack K

Video by:
Andrew K

Expert Research:
Michael H

Expert Research:
Jameson C

Test Fit:
Nicholas E

Expert Research:
John H

Updated by:
Adele M

Expert Research:
Adam R

Video by:
Alan C

Photos by:
Sam P

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