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Accessories and Parts > Wiring > Accessories > Wire Protection > Bushing Grommet > 9/16 Inch Diameter > Spectro

Snap Bushing Grommet - 9/16" ID, 11/16" OD

Spectro Accessories and Parts

(12 reviews)

Code:   SWC8057



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Spectro Accessories and Parts - SWC8057

  • Nylon bushing protects wires form raw-edged metal holes
  • Snap and locks into holes simply by pushing
  • Inside diameter: 9/16"
  • Mounting hole diameter: 0.687"
  • Overall diamter (w/Lip): 25/32"
  • Grommet thickness: 13/32"
  • Metal thickness (max): 0.125"
  • Max temperature: 257 degrees F

Video of Snap Bushing Grommet - 9/16" ID, 11/16" OD

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer
installation instructions and specs for complete information.

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Video Transcript for Roadmaster InvisiBrake Supplemental Braking System Installation - 2011 Cadillac SRX

Today on our 2011 Cadillac SRX, we're going to install part number RN-8700. This is the Roadmaster Invisibrake supplemental braking system. The first step is to go ahead and give us some working room to install this part. We're going to work our way from the front to the back. So we'll go ahead and start removing parts necessary to get access to the floor board, so we have sheet metal to attach our parts to. We'll remove the driver's side threshold panels, and the panels at the driver's side backseat as well, with the panel removal tool.

Now that we've got the panels along the driver's side threshold removed, we'll go ahead and pull back the carpet underneath the pedals and pull it off to the side. First off, we'll go ahead and install the clamp that goes on our brake pedal. Put the two halves together, and then put a bolt and a nut on the back side. Now we'll run the head of the bolt closest to our cable so it won't interfere. Now we'll go ahead and clamp it down, but not tight enough, in case we have to make adjustments later. Now we'll go ahead and lay out our cable and our pulley.

You can see where we already made some lines to show the initial routing of our cable that will eventually go to our brake pedal. Now we'll go ahead and start making our cutouts in the insulation so we can install the pulley and the cable. As we make our cutouts, we'll go ahead and test fit our cable to make sure everything's working just fine. We'll then find a place for our cable to lie for it's clamp. We'll get our two holes cut.

Now I need to make a trench to connect the two, so the cable is in a straight line with the pulley. And we'll go ahead and cut another trench out in the insulation down towards the bottom. At this point, we can go ahead and have our cable moving any way we need to. Our only limitation is to not make a bend that's more than 3". So at this point we'll go ahead and permanently install our pulley and our cable. We'll mark our holes with the pulley to drill and attach it to the sheet metal.

We'll mark our holes with the pulley to drill and attach it to the sheet metal. We found out when we attached our pulley, that when we ran the screws inside that there we're multiple layers of steel, and at different angles. So we ended up drilling pilot holes and using longer screws. With our pulley secured, we'll go ahead and work on our connection to our brake pedal, and clamping down the cable. With the cable and the pulley secured, now we'll go do the other end and install the cylinder. Now we'll pull up the carpet by the threshold by the back seat, and we'll clean out some of the insulation that's there so we have room for our cylinder. Before we put the cylinder in place, we'll go ahead and put the clamp around it, and we'll make sure that the end of our air line is facing up, so we have easy access to it. Then we'll use a 3/8 self-tapping screw to install the clamp to the body work. Now we won't tighten it down all the way just yet, just in case we have to rotate it or make some adjustments. We'll leave the cylinder along for now, and we'll go back up front, reinstall the carpet, and make a cut in it as necessary to make room for the cable. Before we lay down our carpet back in place for good, we'll make sure that our cable is making a gentle S curve underneath the carpet, so it takes up excess space. What we'll do is disconnect the cable from the pedal one more time, find our location in the carpet where we need to make a cut. We'll make a slit, then run the cable back through the carpet. Once our carpet's back in place, we'll go ahead and make our final adjustment at the brake pedal. We'll insert the steel ball at the end of the cable where it fits into the socket. We want to make sure we have about 1/4" of play, so if we can see at least 3/4 of the ball sticking out, we'll have enough play leftin the cable. Now we'll work with the compressor box itself. We're going to go ahead and install it in a storage compartment at the back of the vehicle. We'll go ahead and lay it into place, and then we'll drill a hole in the side of the well that it's sitting in, so we can run our wirs and our air lines out through it. Once we have our hole drilled, we'll go ahead and run our air line from our compressor over into our cylinder. We'll go ahead and run it through the hole, and then through and around the interior panels up to our cylinder. Now when we make our actual connection to the air cylinder, we'll go ahead and take our air line. We'll cut off our excess using a tubing cutter, and then we'll simply push it straight into the fitting. There will be a little bit of friction, and then pull back up just a little bit to make sure it's secure, and our connection's made. To run our wires and vacuum line to the outside, we'll go ahead and drill out two holes to 9/16, and we'll be using two different grommets. We'll be using part number SWC8055. We're going to use that for our vacuum line. And then for the rest of our wires, we're going to use the bigger one, SWC8057. Now on the larger bushing, we're actually going to cut it in half, so we can spring it around one of our wires. Now the wires we're going to run through will be a wire with a large connector that will go up to the breakaway switch up front, the black and red wire for our power supply to the battery, and then our 4-pole wire withthe white, brown, yellow, and green wire.We'll now go underneath our vehicle and pull our excess wires down. With that done, we'll go back into the rear of the vehicle and guide our vacuum line through the other bushing. With our vacuum line and our wires run through the bushing, we'll go ahead and reinstall the liner for the well, and then run our wires through it. We'llleave enough slack so we can run them to our compressor. With the liner in place, we'll go ahead and lay our compressor down. Then we'll make our connections. The wire connections are easy. They're all different connectors, so match them up and push them together. On our vacuum line, we'll need an extra piece of 1/4" tubing that comes with the kit. We'll push it onto the vacuum line, and then onto the port on the back of the compressor. On our small air line that goes to our cylinder, we'll go ahead and cut it to length, and then push it into its fitting, just like the opposite fitting on the other side of the line. We'll let it sit here for now, then we'll continue runningour lines underneath the car. We'll go ahead and start with our 4-pole wire. We'll go ahead and match that color for color with the preexisting towing wire harness. We'll cut the wires, strip them back, and use bud connectors to make our connections to the existing wires. When our connections are made, we'll wrap them up with some electric tape and continue to run our wires up to the front. Basically we're going to follow the same path as the preexisting wire harness, going all the way up towards the front. We'll then zip tie them into place. The two prongs that go to our breakaway switch will continue on underneath the vehicle, and go towards the front, towards the bumper, and for now we'll just tuck that underneath the fascia, and push it towards the front. Our remaining two wires and our vacuum line, we'll go ahead and pull those up from the bottom to the top. We're going to use another piece of air line tubing to help do that. So we'll take our air line tubing and run it from the top out the bottom, tape the wire in the air line, and pull it back up. We'll now work with the red and black wire. First we'll open the battery box in the engine compartment. We'll then split our red and black wires apart. On the red wire, we'll go ahead and attach a fuse holder. We'll strip the wire back, and then slip the fuse holder over a wire. It just crimps into place. Then we'll take our other half with the ring terminal and attach it to the positive side of the battery. Once we have that connected, we'll go ahead and take the fuse and install it into the fuse holder itself. You simply just pull it apart, and the fuse is a press fit on each end. We'll leave it alone for now. Now we'll take our black wire and add a small ring terminal to it, and then we'll go ahead and ground it to the body. There's a sturdy piece of material where the hood prop is, so we'll go ahead and use that. We'll then zip tie them into place. With our black and red wires taken care of, we'll now reinstall the cover of the battery box. Now at this point, we'll go ahead and hook up our vacuum line. We'll look for the line that comes straight off the brake booster, and then we'll go ahead and take out a section. We'll use a knife to cut the line, and then go ahead and insert our check valve on the side that goes towards the engine. Now the kit comes with two different sizes to match up, so when we install the check valve, we'll want to make sure that the red part faces towards the engine. Then we'll add a short section of line, which comes with the kit, and then the matching T, and we'll plug that back into the existing line. Then we'll take our new air line that ran from the back up to the front, and add a short section of 1/4" tubing. We'll slide it over the tubing, and then push that into the barb fitting that goes into the T. We'll now go to the front of our vehicle and pull the breakaway switch wire through the grill. We're going to mount our breakaway switch directly to the base plate already installed on the car, so we need to get access to it. To do that, we're going to lower the bottom part of the fascia that's underneath the bumper cover. We'll remove the screws that are in the fender wells in each side, and a row of screws around the leading edge. We'll go ahead and take this cover, and just set it aside for now. We'll have easy access to our base plate. To install this, we'll goingto actually use a hose clamp to mount the breakaway switch to the base plate. To do that, we're going to take the breakaway switch, and we're going to make a slot in the mounting bracket. With that done, we can mount the breakaway switch to the base plate with our clamp. Now we'll attach our breakaway switch plugs. We'll wrap our connections withsome electrical tape. Now for our signal for our brake light switch, we have to add an additional part. We'll be adding part number RN-751441. Now to install this part number, we need to pull out and remove the side cover next to the door. Then we'll remove two Phillips screws attaching the front cover to the bottom of the dash. Then we can go ahead and remove the front cover. We need to remove the diagnostic port. Then we push in on the tabs on each side, and we can go ahead and remove it from the bottom of the dashboard. Now next, we need to go ahead and remove four plastic fasteners attaching the lower dash cover. There are two in the front, and there are two in the back. When we remove the lower dash cover, there are a couple lights we have to remove. We'll disconnect the wire harness from their holders, and then disconnect the wire harness from the light. Generally, the light just simply snaps off. Now we need to remove the front pedal support bolt. We'll go ahead and remove it now. Then we'll go ahead and take the bolt and put it through the bracket that comes with the kit. But before we permanently install it, we'll go ahead and loosely install the brake switch first, then we'll put it all up as one piece. Before we put the bracket and switch in it's final position, we'll go ahead and run two wires. So we're going to poke a screwdriver through the grommet. It's going to be a tight fit. And try to keep the screwdriver on top of the cable going through. Then we'll go ahead and take a stiff piece of wire and push it through. Then we'll reach down in the engine compartment and pull it out. Then we'll go ahead and attach our wire to our new wires, which will be red and green. We'll go ahead and pull it back through the interior. Then we'll add our connectors, and then we'll go ahead and push them onto the stop light switch. You don't have to worry about the polarity. So we'll just push them on there. Then we'll go aheadand attach the bracket back up to the car. Once we have everything set the way we want it, we'll go ahead and tighten down the bolts for good, and then set down two nuts that hold the brake switch in place. Now we'll go ahead and add a ring terminal to our red wire for our power supply, and attach it to the positive side of the battery. Then we'll go ahead and extend our green wire with the black wire that comes with the Invisibrake. We'll use a bud connector for this. Then we'll wrap up our connection with electric tape, and we'll run that down to our 6-pole connector. We'll zip tie our wires up and head back to the front of the vehicle. Once we're at the 6-pole, we'll remove the screws and pull off the connector and unwrap the electrical tape. We'll cut our black wire to length, strip it back. We'll then route our wire to the connection marked S, and make the connection. Now we can reassemble and put our 6-pole back into place. Next, we'll fasten down our compressor. To do this, we'll drill through the foam that the compressor's sitting on. We'll use a carriage bolt and a flat washer, and from the bottom push our hardware up to the mounting points on the compressor. We'll then fasten it down with a nut. Now we can reinstall our interior panels. We'll next go underneath the vehicle and install our front fascia, being sure not to crush our wire harness. Now we'll seal up the area where we routed our wires down at the rear with some silicone sealant. With the car side complete, we need to add the monitor that goes into the RV that will be pulling the car. First off, we'll go ahead and find a location on the dashboard for our light. Once we have our location, we'll go ahead and drill it out with a 5/16 drill bit. We'll take the light and push it through the hole. Now on the back side, we'll get a push fastener to help hold into place. Now this will be a really, extremely tight fit. Next we'll go ahead and hook up the audio signal circuit board. We'll match our wires red to red and connect the two using the bud connector. Now I'll only use one end in the bud connector. And then the two remaining wires will go to ground. We'll use a bud connector and attach the two together in the same fashion. Now we need to go ahead and extend our wires. We'll use a red and black wire for this, with the black being the ground. We'llinsert our extensions into the other half of the bud connector. Now since the owner will not be using a tow package for our brake controller, we'll connect our red and black wire to those. We'll use bud connectors to make these connections as well. Our red wire will go to the blue brake feed, and the black wire will go to the white wire on the tow package. We'll wrap up our excess wire length underneath the dash and zip tie it into place. With everything connected together, we'll go ahead and connect the two vehicles together electrically. Now to make our electrical connection between the RV and the car, we're going to use part number RN-146-7, the 7-to-6 way wire flexicoil. We'll go ahead and plug the two together, and then try out our system. When we push in the brake pedal on the RV, we should get an indication on the light. That tells us the brake pedal's moving in the towed vehicle. We'll go ahead and activate the brakes and watch the pedal move. You can see how the cable pulls on the brake pedal, applying the brakes on the towed vehicle. We know everything's working electrically now. Then we'll go aheadand hook up the tow bar and take it for a test drive. There you have it for our Roadmaster Invisibrake supplemental braking system, part number RN-8700. .

Customer Reviews

Snap Bushing Grommet - 9/16" ID, 11/16" OD - SWC8057

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (12 Customer Reviews)

- SWC8057

by: Aux M07/04/2014

The only problem I had was having to buy a 11/16" drill bit. All the parts worked great! 139222

- SWC8057

by: Brad R.04/07/2014

Excellent reaction time in getting products processed and shipped. Thanks 124084

- SWC8057

by: Robin02/21/2013

Great product. Fast shipping. Able to buy amount needed. Freight fair. 67264

- SWC8057

by: Marc07/07/2014

Very helpful and everything was as stated and the video was great. 139823

- SWC8057

by: Gabriel O.07/17/2014

What I ordered, what I needed. I couldn't ask for more. 141774

- SWC8057

ratingratingratingratingrating by: John N.08/05/2013

Good product, secure fit. 93383

- SWC8057

by: Joe Stan07/08/2013

Good quality 88264

- SWC8055

by: Den J07/12/2014

Review from a similar Spectro Snap Bushing Grommet

We put it on a 2009 Silverado crew cab. Works great but would be better with 3' extra wire. Would have brought wire through the firewall but had to drill a hole in the floor. 141006

- SWC8055

by: Ryan11/11/2013

Review from a similar Spectro Snap Bushing Grommet

Great service great products, couldn't ask for more. Thanks. 106943

- SWC8055

by: BT09/12/2014

Review from a similar Spectro Snap Bushing Grommet

perfect for routing wires thru firewall 150895

- SWC8055

by: Joe Stan07/08/2013

Review from a similar Spectro Snap Bushing Grommet

Exactly what I expected. Good Quality 88262

- SWC8055

by: Mike02/10/2012

Review from a similar Spectro Snap Bushing Grommet

Will save wires 31428


Ask the Experts about this Spectro Accessories and Parts
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  • How to Route Wiring Through Firewall When Installing Brake Controller on 2014 Ford Escape
  • Your best bet is always going to be using an existing opening. If you can find an existing grommet where a factory wiring harness passes through the firewall into the passenger cab, you can use a sharp knife to carefully poke a slit in the rubber or plastic grommet to pass the wire through. If you cannot find anything, you'll need to drill your own hole, being extremely careful to make sure that there's not anything on the other side of where you're drilling that would be damaged. You...
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